Regular maintenance will keep your siding looking new and lasting longer. Why is it so important to regularly maintain your siding? Like the skin on your body, there are two main purposes that siding fulfills: appearance and protection. It protects your home against natural elements and pests, adds stability to the frame of your home, helps insulate and it also adds character to the outside of the home.

Although there are several different types of siding you can choose from for manufactured homes, the three most popular include metal siding, like aluminum or steel, vinyl siding or a natural wood siding. And each kind of material needs to be maintained differently.

Washing

Give your home a good washing for a fresh new look.

Note: Don't wash wood siding. Heavy exposure to water might result in decay, chipping, bowed or expanded panels, disintegration or shrinkage. Read below to learn about proper maintenance for wood siding.

• Make sure you close all the windows, doors and vents.
• Cover anything on the house you don't want to get wet. Use plastic bags and tarps with duct tape to cover bushes, outdoor furniture and light fixtures.
• Attach a soft car-washing brush to your garden hose and wash off the dirt.
• Remove tree sap and any other stubborn stains. First soak the sap with raw linseed oil, mineral spirits, or auto bug and tar remover. Let stand until soft. Wipe with a clean cloth.
• You can use household detergent to clean the siding or purchase a cleaning compound specifically for your siding material. Several varieties are available at manufactured home supply stores.
• Wash your siding from top to bottom to keep the lower area wet, preventing detergent lines.
• Rinse off the cleaner. Attach a spray nozzle to your hose to increase water pressure
• Dry the siding with a towel from the top down.

Vinyl Siding

• Don't rely on a rainstorm to keep your siding clean. Give it a good cleaning at least once a year to keep sediment and grime off its surface.
• Replace any damaged panels. New panels are quick and easy to install.
• If your vinyl siding has a wood grain or pebble finish, it will hold dirt and require more frequent washing.
• If you do not have rain gutters, your house will need more frequent cleaning.
• Rubbing compound scratches vinyl surfaces.
• Vinyl siding is brittle in very cold weather. Be careful not to hit or strike it, or it might shatter.

Keep grills from vinyl. Exposing the vinyl to intense heat will melt the siding.

You might think that a paint job would be an inexpensive and easy solution to make faded vinyl siding look like new again. But paint does not hold well to vinyl's surface because it continuously changes with the weather. Vinyl soaks up heat causing expansion and contraction as temperatures rise and fall. Instead of a short-term painting job, consider replacing your siding altogether. Check with a several retailers to see the variety of colors and textures to choose from. Ask them about lifetime warranties or guarantees that they offer.

Wood Siding

Cedar, Cypress and Redwood sidings are popular siding choices that offer natural beauty to the outside of a home. But wood siding requires more upkeep than most siding because of its natural surface. With regular maintenance and care, you can prevent damage and keep your wood siding looking beautiful for several years.

• Caulk any joints, holes or cracks with a paint-able caulk. Seal the bottom of the panels and any chips.
• Paint or stain the wood every four years. Check the manufacturer's guidelines to see what kind of paint or stain works best with the wood on your home.
• Keep an eye out for critters. Birds, insects and rodents love to make a home or a meal out of wood siding.
• Keep sprinklers away from the home. Heavy exposure to water might result in decay, chipping, bowed or expanded panels, disintegration or shrinkage. Wood siding resides best in dry regions
• Check the paint for flaking and re-cover any exposed surface.

Aluminum Siding

Keep aluminum siding looking like new with a regular cleaning every six months to prevent oxidation and/or corrosion over time. For metal siding, oxidation and corrosion are common problems that wear and tear at the outside of your home. Taking care of these problems as soon as they occur could save you from having to replace your siding altogether.

Corrosion

Corroded areas leave dark spots on the siding. These are caused by moisture being exposed to the metal surface for extended periods. Check for rust-colored stains in places that tend to stay wet longer, such as under eaves or recessed entryways. If you find corroded areas, be sure to get rid of the spots before they spread further. For both aluminum and steel siding, sand out the corrosion blisters down to the bare metal, then spot prime with an anti-rust primer.

Oxidation
Oxidation leaves a white chalky film on the siding that can dull the exterior of your home. Keep your siding clean to prevent oxidation from forming. If your siding looks faded from oxidation, contact a professional manufactured home washer. A professional can clean your house in less than an hour with high-pressure hoses.

Scratches
Keep a minor scratch on your metal siding from becoming a major problem.

• Lightly rub the scratched area with a fine rubbing compound. This will remove dirt, grease and loose paint.
• Rinse with water and dry.
• Cover larger areas with a primer coat to improve to help prevent the formation of rust. Allow to dry.
• Use a small brush and cover the scratch with touch-up paint. Apply as many layers of paint as you need to make the scratch less noticeable. Allow drying time between coats, and allow two weeks for the paint to completely harden.
• Use a fine polishing compound to blend the area into the surrounding paint. Apply a coat of oil-based wax to the entire area.

Painting Metal Siding

Apply a fresh coat of paint to the siding of your home to keep it looking like new. If you need to paint just one panel, consider taking that panel to an auto body shop to be painted. They should be able to match the color. If you plan to paint the whole exterior of the home and want to tackle the project yourself, wait for a calm and overcast day to paint. Paint needs to dry slowly and the sunlight and wind will only speed up the drying process.

Prepare to paint:

• Thoroughly wash the exterior of your home
• Repair any dents.
• Caulk any cracks or holes along the panels, around corners or around windows with a paint-able caulk.
• Cover everything you don't want painted (windows, doors, the roof, etc.) with newspapers, drop cloths, tarps or masking tape. It's much easier to cover these areas beforehand than to remove paint later.

Before you're ready to apply an oil-based metal paint primer, the siding needs to be completely dry. Mix one gallon of the oil-based paint primer with one pint of paint thinner. Tint the primer to a lighter shade of the paint color you choose. The primer will help the new paint adhere to the surface and provide an extra color coat. Let the primer dry completely before adding the next coat of paint.

Use an acrylic-based, latex exterior house paint over the primer. A high volume of acrylic resin in the paint will make the paint job last longer. Invest in premium paint, brushes and roller covers. Bargain paint is no bargain if you're looking for better coverage, longer wear and a more washable surface.

How much paint do I purchase?

To compute the amount of paint needed, multiply the height of the house times the entire perimeter. Do not subtract for windows because this area will roughly equal the trim, eaves and soffits. Divide the total square footage by the number of square feet per gallon cited on the label of the paint.

Source: ​https://www.foremost.com/learning-center/keep-your-siding-looking-new.asp

Attachments can add a great deal to your home. Awnings, canopies and sunroofs let you enjoy the outdoors and carports add shelter for your car and other outdoor items. Yet, it's important to install these attachments correctly. In a windstorm, loose sheets of fiberglass or metal can cause damage to your home.

It's fairly easy to install an awning, carport, canopy or sunroof. You should receive detailed installation instructions with your attachment. Most attachments connect to your home on a type of track. Usually, a ledger board or ribbon board attaches to the wall of the home. A mounting strip on the board hooks into the side of the attachment.

Attachment checklist

• Slant the attachment so water is channeled away from your home. If it isn't slanted, water can leak into your home or collect under your home. A slant of 1/4 inch per foot is enough to keep water off your carport, patio roof, or canopy.
• Attach the awning or sunroof to wall studs. Don't just screw the attachment into the siding because it's not strong enough to hold it up on its own. A strong wind may not only tear off an awning or sunroof, but could tear off part of your siding too.
• Make sure the attachment can handle a load of snow, if necessary. Buy an attachment built for your climate. For example, a single pan roof might collapse under a large amount of heavy wet snow.
• Check that windows and doors open without scraping the awning or sunroof. Install attachments high enough so they clear open doors and windows.
• Anchor the attachment solidly to the ground. If you have a concrete slab, bolt the posts into the concrete. If you don't have a concrete slab, either anchor your posts with an auger or set them in concrete piers.
• Caulk or seal your attachment. Use a silicone caulk to seal the seam or flashing where your attachment connects to the wall. This easy step can prevent a slow leak from causing major damage.
• Anchor an unattached storage shed to a concrete slab or secure it to the ground with auger-type anchors. If your shed breaks loose in a windstorm, not only will the shed be damaged, but so will anything it crashed into – including your home.

CAUTION!
Before you install your awning, sunroof or carport, remember to:

• Determine the location of the wall studs. You must connect your attachment to the studs, not just the siding.
• Determine the location of the electrical wires in your sidewalls.

Support post attachment
Firmly attach the posts, poles or columns that hold up your sunroof, carport, patio cover, awning or canopy, to the ground. If loosely secured, a strong wind can lift up the entire structure.
Here are two methods to secure your posts to the ground. If you have a concrete slab or steps, use the first method, otherwise, use the second. Follow these instructions if you are installing new posts or reattaching your current posts.

Attach posts to concrete
If you do not have a concrete slab, you will need to attach your posts solidly into the ground.If you have heavy soil – not sand – an auger-type anchor might be suitable. These anchors, with a mounting plate, are often available from a carport or sunroof manufacturer. Check with a manufactured home supplier if you can't find any.

Step 1: Remove post
If you are replacing an existing post, use a pry bar to lift that post from the concrete. Do not reuse screws.

Step 2: Drill holes
Use the foot or shoes of your post as a guide to position bolts. Use a masonry bit on your power drill to drill holes in concrete. Start with a small masonry bit, then switch to larger masonry bits until the holds are 3 inches deep and about 3 times the diameter of the bolt. This means you will need to drill a 3/4-inch hole for a 1/4-inch bolt.

Step 3: Apply adhesive
Check to make sure the holes still line up with the holes on the foot or base of the pole. Then, brush some construction adhesive inside the holes.

Step 4: Install shields
Insert the lag shields into the holes.

Step 5: Install post & lag bolts
Put the foot or base of the post over the holes. Insert the lag bolts through the postholes and into the lag shields. You do not need to wait for the construction adhesive to dry. Tighten bolts with a wrench. The lag shield will expand as you turn the bolt.

Attaching in ground

A better method of attaching your posts is to dig a hole and fill with cement.

Step 1: Dig holes
Be sure to check with the local building inspector regarding the best method of installing posts for your soil conditions. Find out if there are requirements for the size and depth of footings.

Caution!
Locate any buried gas, water, electrical or cable hookups.

Dig a hole for each post. It should be approximately 16 to 32 inches deep by 12 inches wide, depending on the size of the post supplied by the manufacturer. If you have many postholes to dig, or if your soil is particularly firm, you may want to rent an auger or clamshell-type posthole digger, or even a power-driven auger.

Step 2: Pour cement
If your posts are long enough, set them upright in the hole before you pour cement. Tamp the cement well, and slope away from posts. Allow cement to solidify before installing sunroof, carport, awning or patio cover. If you move the posts, you will enlarge the holes.

Step 3: Position bolts
If your posts are not long enough, pour the concrete. Before it solidifies, level the surface. Lightly press the foot or base of the post on the wet cement to make an impression mark to position the bolts. Put a washer on the bolt, and position it next to the head of the bolt. Push the bolts, upside-down, into the cement. The bolts should be embedded in the cement at least 2 inches. Let the cement harden before installing the base or foot of the post. Use lock washers and nuts to attach to bolts.

Source: https://www.foremost.com/learning-center/mobile-home-awning.asp

If your mobile home already has a fireplace or wood stove, it's a good idea to go look over these safety guidelines to confirm that it was installed correctly. If you plan to install a fireplace or wood stove, follow these safety guidelines carefully.

First, don't try to tackle this project yourself. While installation manuals usually provide all the instructions necessary for a manufactured home owner to install a wood-burning fireplace or wood stove, the consequences of a mistake are so disastrous, it's a task best left to experts.
​
It's a good idea to first check with your insurance company for their guidelines before installing these items. Your insurance policy may not cover damages if a fireplace or wood stove was not professionally installed. Plus, the manufacturer's warranty on the fireplace or wood stove may not apply unless the unit is installed by a professional.
​
Make sure you and the installer follow these safety requirements to prevent problems:

• If the fireplace or wood stove will be installed on a combustible floor, build a non-combustible hearth to protect the floor underneath the unit and in front of the opening.
• The hearth extension in front of the fireplace or wood stove needs to be made of noncombustible material. It should be extend at least 16 inches in front of, and at least 10 inches beyond each side of the unit.
• Equip the fireplace or wood stove with a built-in ash guard and spark-resistant screen, as well as metal or glass doors.
• Before you select a location for your fireplace or wood stove, consider the normal traffic pattern through the room, the location of doors and windows, and any construction obstacles above and below the unit.
• A corner might be the most economical location for your fireplace. Because of the slanted sides, a corner-installed fireplace takes up less floor space than one installed against a flat wall and projected into the room.
• Do not install the wood stove closer than 36 inches to any unprotected combustible wall. The adjacent walls should never feel uncomfortably warm.
• If you would like the wood stove to be closer than 36 inches to a wall, you may be able to reduce the clearance to 12 inches if you protect the wall with an approved, ventilated, non-combustible wall protector. Your insurance company may need to approve it as well. When installing the wall protector, space it out from the wall with screws and spacers. Make sure these spacers are placed so that they don't conduct heat directly into the wall stud.
• Supply the fireplace or wood stove with air from outside the home. It's important that a combustion air inlet provide this outside air. Make sure the inlet damper is located above the snow level. Also make sure the combustion air inlet does not drop ashes, which could be hot, under your home.
• Determine what type of stovepipe will be connected to your wood stove. It should be a double-wall steel stovepipe, which means the chimney pipe is shielded by another stovepipe at least two inches larger in diameter. A triple-wall pipe is even safer. If you use a double or triple-wall pipe, or if the wall is protected by an approved, ventilated, non-combustible protector, place the stovepipe at a minimum of 9 inches from the wall.
• It's important that your fireplace/wood stove flue pipe extends higher than all other combustion pipes and vents on your home's roof. The chimney must be at least 3 feet higher than that roof, and at least 2 feet higher than everything else within a 10-foot radius.

The National Fire Protection Association also makes these installation recommendations for manufactured homes:

• Install all fuel-burning appliances so the combustion system is completely separated from the interior atmosphere of the manufactured home. Combustion air inlets and flue gas outlets must be listed or certified as components of the appliance. The required separation should be obtained by either:
• Installing direct-vent system (sealed combustion system) appliances.
• Installing appliances within enclosures to separate the combustion and venting systems from the interior atmosphere of the home. The enclosure must not have any door, removable access panel, or other opening into it from the inside of the home. Any opening for ducts, piping, wiring and others must be sealed.
• Equip the fireplace or wood stove with an integral door(s) or shutters designed to close the fire chamber opening. It must include a complete means for venting through the roof, a combustion air inlet, a hearth extension and a way to securely attach the fireplace or fireplace stove to the home structure.
• Use a listed, factory-built chimney designed to be directly attached to fireplaces and wood stoves. The chimney needs to be equipped with a termination device and a spark arrester.
• A fireplace or wood stove, the air intake assembly, hearth extension and chimney must be installed according to the terms of their listings and the manufacturer's instructions.
• Make sure the combustion air inlet conducts air directly into the fire chamber and is designed to prevent material dropping from the hearth onto the area beneath the home.
• Do not install the fireplace or wood stove in a sleeping room.
• Have the hearth extend over the entire surface beneath a fireplace or wood stove, or beneath an elevated or overhanging fireplace.
• The label on the fireplace or wood stove should read: “FOR USE WITH SOLID FUEL ONLY.”

Once your fireplace or wood stove is operational, follow these safety tips from the National Fire Protection Association:

• Never use a flammable liquid to start a fire.
• An even-burning fire is preferable to a heavily stoked fire. Hardwoods seasoned for one year are recommended for use in fireplaces.
• Keep the area next to the fireplace free of easily ignited materials, such as newspapers, cardboard, fabrics, carpet or drapes.
• Between fires, allow ashes to cool, shovel into a metal can and dispose of properly. Watch out for ashes that are cool on the top and hot inside. Removing ashes allows the fireplace to burn cleaner and helps it heat more efficiently.
• Don't build a roaring fire just before going to bed. Plan the fire so it's nearly burned out by the time you're ready for bed. Check to see if the coals are still hot. If they are, leave the flue open for the fumes to escape.
• If your fireplace or wood stove does not have glass or metal doors, seriously consider adding this feature. Not only will this greatly improve the energy efficiency of your unit, it will also stop sparks from igniting surrounding materials. At the very least, you should have a metal screen in front of the fireplace or wood stove.
• Have the chimney and chimney pipes checked annually for creosote buildup. If necessary, have them cleaned. Creosote buildup is a major cause of chimney fires.
• Make sure you have a smoke detector located in the same room as the fireplace or wood stove, and test it regularly.

​Source: https://www.foremost.com/learning-center/installing-a-fireplace-or-wood-stove.asp

​If your mobile home is shaking, it might be because it's not leveled properly.

Your mobile home is prone to coming out of level, simply because of how it’s built. Here are a few things that may indicate your home is not properly leveled:

1. The floor shakes when you walk on it.
2. The siding or roofing is starting to buckle.
3. Your windows are difficult to open or close.
4. Cabinet doors stay open, or they're hard to close.
5. You're starting to see signs of erosion and tipping.
6. Your tie-downs and anchors are loose (if they are, here’s how you can properly install them ).

Here are a few things that can cause your home to come out of level:

1. Your home was not installed properly.
2. There is leftover damage from an earthquake.
3. Water has loosened the soil below your home.
4. The ground below your mobile is moving upward (aka heaving).

What can you do if your mobile home is not leveled properly?

If your home is still under warranty, you might be able to have the manufacturer and installer re-level it for free.

If your warranty has expired, it might be best to hire a professional.

Other things that can cause your mobile home to shake:

1. There’s a lot of wind outside.
2. There’s an earthquake happening.
3. There’s a lot of road traffic where you live.
4. Your washing machine is on, and it’s pretty strong.

You may or may not be able to stop those things from shaking your mobile home.

When it comes to the weather and other things going on outside, all homes may experience shaking from time to time.

The only difference is, you can perceive that shaking a lot more in your mobile home because of how it’s built.

While you may not be able to permanently eliminate the shaking, these things might help minimize it:

1. Upgrade the quality of your floor covering.
2. Reinforce the floor under your washing machine.
3. Check your tie-downs and anchors three or four times a year.

Keep in mind this article is for informational purposes only. It is not meant to be a comprehensive guide. These are a few reasons your mobile home could be shaking, and a few possible solutions.

Form number: 9025745

Sources:
https://www.foremost.com/learning-center/why-my-mobile-home-shaking.asp
https://architecttwocents.com/why-mobile-home-shake/
https://freedomresidence.com/why-your-mobile-home-is-shaking-and-what-to-do-about-it/

Out of sight, out of mind! It's a saying that's too often true about making repairs around the base of your home. Problems with manufactured home skirting are common, but thankfully, replacing your mobile home's skirting is easier than you might think.

Do you remember when you were young and had to check under your bed for monsters before you could go to sleep? I sure do! Because of my hyperactive imagination and the poor decision to watch one too many cheesy 80s horror movies, I was absolutely terrified of monsters when I was a kid. Every night I would thoroughly inspect all of the best hiding places in my room before I reluctantly switched off the light and frantically dashed for my bed, fully expecting to be ambushed by a mob of gremlins as soon as everything was dark. I certainly didn't want any mischievous little critters to snack on one of my exposed limbs as I slept, so I wrapped myself in a cocoon of blankets as an extra precaution.

Now that I am an adult who is fairly confident that there are no monsters under my bed, I have a more important question to ask: What's lurking below your mobile home? The answer probably isn't monsters, but here are three things that you may find:

Animals
Mice, raccoons, squirrels, skunks, insects and other critters may invade the space below your mobile home and cause messes, loud noises, bothersome odors and other damages. Keeping your trash and recycle bins tightly closed and making a point to keep the underside of your home clean of trash and debris are good strategies for keeping otherwise curious animals away. It also helps to keep bird feeders a good distance from your home, as they attract pesky squirrels and raccoons. According to SFGate, sprinkling chili or habanero flakes in the dirt around your home is an effective way to repel many animals. But if you do end up finding an animal under your home, don't try to remove it yourself. Instead, call your local animal control service−they can help you find a safe solution.

Water
If there is an abundance of clay in the soil around your home or if your yard is not graded well, any water that collects under your home may not be able to drain properly. Rainfall and even plumbing leaks can lead to excess moisture, and if you don't act quickly to fix this problem, your home could become musty and moldy. My Mobile Home Makeover suggests addressing the issue of pooling rain water by stapling plastic sheeting to the bottom frames of skirting so that any water that collects will be absorbed beneath the plastic and will not damage the bottom of your home. You can also install gutters to prevent rain water from pooling underneath or around your home.

Holes
It never hurts to thoroughly inspect the bottom of your mobile home for holes. Gaps, tears and open spaces enable animals to sneak in and make your home their own. Holes could also expose water pipes and wires, which could easily be damaged by outside elements. If you find holes in the polyethylene belly wrap below your home, SFGate suggests stuffing fiberglass insulation into the space before patching it. Additionally, cleaning the area around the hole will make the patch stick more effectively. Lastly, if you plan to file a claim with your insurance company, be sure to take photos of the holes and other damages and keep careful records of your receipts and invoices related to any mobile home underbelly repairing projects.

Routinely checking under your mobile home for animals, water and holes will help you stay aware of potentially monstrous damages that require your attention.

An ounce of prevention saves a ton of trouble when it comes to making your home more comfortable. Why put up with drafts, leaks, excess moisture, mildew or pesky pests when you don't have to?

You can put a stop to costly drafts or leaks before they start with the right sealant, caulking compound or roof coating. Unwanted moisture can be a problem even in today's well-built and insulated manufactured homes, but not if you take steps to control it. Pests inside or under your manufactured home can also cause trouble. Homeowners agree it's far easier to keep bugs or unwanted animals from getting into their manufactured home than it is to get rid of them once they've moved in! Here are some quick preventive maintenance tips that pay off in both time and money.

How to keep out drafts and leaks
Sealants, caulking compounds and roof coatings prevent leaks and drafts. Sealing your home is probably the easiest and least costly way to make your home more comfortable and energy efficient. Basically, any crevice, crack or connection (except the edges of siding panels) should be sealed.

To determine if your old caulk needs replacing, poke it with a screwdriver or nail. It should have a rubbery consistency. If it is hard, brittle and cracked, remove and replace it as part of your regular preventive maintenance. You will probably need more than one type of sealant to do your entire home. Here are some common sealant types:

• Silicone Expensive, but excellent for most uses. High adhesion and longevity. Paint might not stick to surface.
• Acrylic Latex Not quite as expensive as silicone. Good adhesion and longevity. Can be painted.
• Vinyl Latex Somewhat expensive. Good around damp areas such as tubs and toilets.
• Oil-Based Caulk Fairly inexpensive. Does not last long. Bonds well to most surfaces.
• Expandable Foam An excellent way to fill gaps around pipes. Also provides insulation value. Very adhesive.
• Roof Coating – Aluminum Based Available in a variety of grades. Should be applied to entire metal roof at least once every two years. Prevents leaks and corrosion.
• Roof Coating – White Can be acrylic or elastomeric (rubber). More expensive than aluminum based roof coating. Prevents leaks and reflects sun's rays. Keeps house cooler in summer.
• Patching Cement For use on a metal roof. Ideal for patching holes and sealing seams.

you'd like. Things to consider are the window's location, whether you want a smaller or larger replacement, and the way the original window was mounted on your home. Don't assume that you must replace your old window with an exact duplicate. Many new energy-efficient windows, in a variety of styles, are made for manufactured homes.

Before you go shopping, determine the size of your existing window and check if the window is flush-mounted or mounted for lap siding. A flush-mounted window frame screws on over the siding. If the window has a lap-siding mount, the siding covers the window frame screws. Your new window should have the same type of mount as your current window, for appearance and ease of installation.
Before you order a new window, you may want to remove your old window and check that the opening is square. To do that, remove your window, and measure the opening diagonals corner to corner or use a framing square to measure the opening.

If the window opening is slightly off-square, you can use shims to fit in a new window. If the opening is significantly off-square, you can reduce the window opening by roughing a new, square frame for a smaller window or you can enlarge the opening for a larger window. It's usually easier to reduce the opening and install a smaller window.

If you are replacing a bedroom window, and it's the only exit from the bedroom to the outside, you probably won't be able to make the opening smaller. Bedroom windows that serve as egress windows in case of fire must meet minimum code requirements.

To replace your window, you'll need screws, putty tape, silicone sealant, and a screwdriver and/or replaceable drill with screwhead bits. When you purchase your new window, check with the window supplier about any special tools or screwhead bits you'll need.

• Step 1: Remove siding You can skip this step if your frame is mounted over vertical siding. If your frame is mounted under lap siding, remove the siding around the window. Be careful – if you bend aluminum siding, you will not be able to get rid of the resulting crease.
• Step 2: Remove window Using a reversible drill and proper screwhead bit, remove the screws around the edges of the frame. Note the size and type of screw. It's best not to reuse these screws. Instead, use new screws the same diameter and slightly longer than the originals. Once all the screws are out, remove the old window and frame.
  Scrape off all the old putty tape from the opening and frame. Apply new putty tape around the window frame. For extra moisture protection, apply two thicknesses of putty tape at the top of the opening. Applying putty tape is very important, especially if you have vertical siding. The tape fills any gaps between the window frame and the siding.
• Step 3: Replace window Start by inserting one screw in the middle of all four sides. Be sure the screws go in straight. Do not tighten screws. Check to make sure the window is square before inserting more screws. After you have used about half the screws, open and close the window a few times to see that it is square and does not bind. Put in the remaining screws and tighten.
• Step 4: Seal Run a bead of clear silicone sealant along the top of the window where it meets the siding. Replace any siding that was removed.

The process for installing shingles on mobile homes is exactly the same as site-built homes. However, on site-built homes, two or three layers of shingles are acceptable. On a mobile home, one layer is the limit.
This means, if your shingles need replacing, that's exactly what you need to do – remove and replace them. You can't solve the problem by covering them with a second layer of shingles.

The reason is weight. A square of shingles that only covers 100 square feet, weighs about 240 pounds. Your roof might require nine or more squares. Mobile home roof trusses aren't built to handle the weight of a double layer of shingles.

Fix-It Tips!
If possible, replace your shingles on a hot day when they are more pliable and seal better.
Seal minor splits and cracks to shingles with roofing cement. You can also try to cement down curled shingles-but they will probably have to be replaced.

When Shingles Wear Out
Fiberglass and asphalt shingles are durable, water resistant, roofing materials. Under ideal conditions, some of the higher quality shingles may last 30 years, but that is optimistic. If your shingles have been up for 15 or more years, you might need to re-roof in the not-too-distant future – especially if you live in a snowbelt or high heat area. In addition, shingles on mobile homes with low-slope roofs have a tendency to wear out earlier. On a roof with less pitch, the shingles are more exposed to sun, water and snow.

It's important to periodically examine your shingles for damage after you have removed all debris. Check them every spring and fall, and after a hailstorm or high winds. Promptly replace any cracked, curled-up, broken or missing shingles. If you don't, rain water could seep under the sheathing and leak into your sidewalls or ceiling.

Examine the roof up close from a ladder. Particularly check the roof ridge and valleys for cracked shingles, and the bottom and side rows for curled back or broken shingles.

Replacing a damaged shingle is a relatively easy repair.
Here's what you'll need to replace shingles - 

Materials:

• replacement shingles
• roofing nails
• roofing cement

Tools:

• hammer
• utility knife
• long knife
• small piece of plywood.

Step 1: Cut through sealer strips
If installed properly, each shingle should have eight nails holding it in place: four in the middle, about ½ inch above the tab cutouts (these four nails also go through the top of the shingle below), and four along the top (these four nails are pounded through the middle of the shingle above). See the diagram that shows how shingles are installed.

To replace one shingle, you need to loosen at least three shingles: the one being replaced and the two shingles on the two rows above the damaged shingle. You will need to cut through the sealer strip (also called “adhesive line”) on these shingles. The sealer strip is a dashed line of asphalt adhesive that runs across the middle of the shingle. To loosen, slide a long knife, putty knife or small crowbar under the damaged shingle. The tool must reach over halfway up the shingle. Slide it along the entire length of the shingle. Repeat this procedure for the shingles on the two rows above the damaged shingle.

Step 2: Remove nails along middle of damaged shingle
You do not want to crack or split the shingles above or below the damaged shingle. Carefully slide a pry bar under the damaged shingle. You might want to slide a piece of plywood under the pry bar to protect the shingle underneath. Gently pry up the damaged shingle, being careful not to damage the shingles above. You do not need to pry the damaged shingle up very far-just enough to loosen the four middle nails.

Remove the pry bar and plywood. Carefully lift up the tabs on the shingle above the damaged shingle. Work the nails (in the middle of the damaged shingle) back and forth with your fingers until you can remove them.

Step 3: Repeat procedure on next level
Remove the four nails holding down the top of the damaged shingle. Because these nails are also holding down the middle of the shingle just above, you will need to gently pry up this shingle to loosen nails.
Carefully slide the pry bar under the shingle just above the damaged shingle. Repeat the previous procedure to loosen nails. You do not need to remove these nails. Loosen them just enough so they no longer go through the damaged shingle.

Step 4: Remove shingle
Slide out the damaged shingle. Use it to size the replacement shingle (if it is not full width.)

Step 5: Replace shingle
Make sure the replacement shingle is the same size as the old shingle. If not, use a utility knife to cut to fit. Slide new shingle into place, and set flush with adjacent shingles. It should fit snugly.

Step 6: Nail
Attach shingle with roofing nails. To prevent leaks, pound nails in already existing holes. If this is not possible, seal the existing nail holes in the shingles with roofing cement. You will probably need to pound in the nails after you have laid all the shingles flat. This means you will have to hit the nails through the shingle immediately above. To prevent damaging the shingles, place a board on top of the shingle and hit the hammer on the board.

Step 7: Cement
Cover all the nails with roofing cement. Press the upper shingles on top of the cement to seal. You may need to weight it down overnight.

Source: https://www.foremost.com/learning-center/staying-on-top-of-shingle-repair.asp

When strong winds blow, manufactured homes need special protection. No matter where you live, you need tie-downs and anchors to keep your manufactured home stable and secure. Before you start the job, you should understand why this wind protection system is necessary, and know the basic requirements for tie-downs and anchors. You also need to become familiar with all the components that make up your anchoring system. It's a good idea to consult with an experienced professional installer or building inspector if you have any questions or doubts about the installation.

Why Mobile Home Tie-Downs?
Manufactured homes must have anchors and tie-downs to keep them in place during high winds. Compared to site-built homes, manufactured homes are relatively lightweight. They have flat sides and ends, and they are built on frames rather than foundations. Almost all manufactured homes are elevated, situated on top of some sort of pier or foundation system. Wind can get under the homes and lift them up. In addition, the wind passing over the top of your manufactured home can create an uplift force.
To resist wind forces, you need two different types of tie-downs. In older homes, a vertical or over-the-top tie-down is needed to compensate for the uplift force. A diagonal or frame tie-down is needed to compensate for both lateral and uplift forces. Singlewide manufactured homes need both types of tie-downs. Doublewide homes only need the diagonal ties.

Tie Down Requirements For Manufactured Homes
• Singlewide manufactured homes require both diagonal and vertical ties.
• Doublewide manufactured homes require only diagonal ties.

Length of manufactured home (ft)Number of Vertical Ties per SideNumber of Diagonal Ties per SideNumber of Vertical Ties per SideNumber of Diagonal Ties per Side

• To determine the length, do not include the draw bar.
• Numbers based on minimum working load per anchor of 3,150 pounds, with a 50% overload of 4,725 pounds.
• Diagonal ties must deviate at least 40 degrees from a vertical direction.
• If your home has special site considerations, a registered professional engineer or architect can devise an alternate anchoring system.

Anchoring System Components

• Types Of Tie-Downs.The type of tie-down you select usually depends on when your manufactured home was built. Older homes often have exposed over-the-top tie-downs. This is an effective system, but it does detract from the appearance of your house. The straps are placed over the siding and roof. Until recent years, most manufactured homes came equipped with concealed over-the-top tie-downs. These straps are located just under the exterior siding and metal roof. The end of the strap hangs out under the manufactured home. Newer model homes might not have any type of over-the-top tie-down. Because of increased structural strength of manufactured homes, these models are secured with anchoring straps attached to the home's steel frame rails, called frame anchors. Doublewides are also secured with frame anchors.
• Types Of Anchors.You'll find anchors available for different types of soil conditions, including concrete slab. Auger anchors have been designed for both hard soil and soft soil. Rock anchors or drive anchors allow attachment to a rock or coral base. This type of anchor is also pinned to the ground with crossing steel stakes. If you will be pouring a concrete base, you can install a concrete anchor first. 
  
  You need to know your soil type to select the right anchor. Soil classifications usually include: rock/hard pan, heavy, sandy gravel, heavy sand, silty gravel, clayey gravel, clay, silty clay, clayey silt, uncommitted fill or peat/organic clay. 
  
  Whatever type of anchors you select, carefully follow the installation instructions. Auger anchors (screw-in anchors) can be installed manually by inserting a metal bar through the top of the anchor for added leverage or with a machine designed for this purpose. It's important to screw this type of anchor in. Do not dig a hole to install.
• Hook-Up And Tension Device:The tie-down must be connected to the anchor with a system that allows for adjusting the tension. It must also be weather resistant and strong enough to support as much weight as the anchor and tie-down. If the tie-down is fastened to a ground anchor with a drop-forged turnbuckle, the turnbuckle should be ½ inch or larger galvanized steel. The turnbuckle should have forged or welded eyes, not hook ends.
• The Roof Protector.If you have exposed over-the-top tie-downs, you must have some sort of roof protectors placed under the strap or cable at the edge of the roof. Roof protectors are also called roof brackets, buffers or thimbles. These prevent the tie-down strap or cable from damaging the roof and will prevent the edge of the roof from cutting through the tie-down. Wood blocks will work, and are better than nothing, but commercial protectors will do a better job of distributing the pressure of the cable. Commercial protectors will last longer, too.
• Specifications.Make sure all your anchoring equipment (anchors, turnbuckles, straps, hookups) is capable of resisting an allowable working load of at least 3,150 pounds. The equipment must also be capable of withstanding a 50 percent overload, 4,725 pounds. This also applies to the attachment point on the manufactured home. Only use anchoring equipment that is weather and corrosion resistant. YOU MUST ALIGN EXPOSED OVER-THE-TOP TIE-DOWNS WITH A ROOF RAFTER TO PREVENT DAMAGING THE ROOF. 
  
  Tie-downs can be either cable or strap. If cable is used, it should be galvanized steel or stainless steel. Minimum diameter size is 3/8 inches for 7 x 7, or ¼ inch for “aircraft” cable, 7 x 19. If flat steel strapping is used, it must be a minimum of 1-¼ inches wide x .035 inches thick.
  

Tie-Down And Anchor Installation
Installing a tie-down and anchoring system is not too complicated for most do-it-yourselfers. It's wise, however, to seek experienced help to make sure you are using the proper anchor for your soil conditions, enough anchors for your wind conditions, the correct tension on your tie-down, and proper angle for your frame tie-downs. At the very least you should have a building inspector or a trained installer check over your finished work.

• Step 1: Level HouseMake sure your home is level before anchoring it to the ground.
• Step 2: Check ChartsCheck the wind zone chart for your location and determine the required number of anchors recommended for your zone. You should regard this number as the minimum needed for your home.
• Step 3: Determine Soil TypeMerely looking at the ground under your home isn't enough. Some types of anchors need to be installed five feet deep. Talk to a building inspector to determine your soil type. If you will be attaching your tie-downs to a concrete foundation, make sure it is at least 4 inches thick.
• Step 4: Select AnchorsTalk to a supplier or installer for advice. Your soil type will determine the type of anchor.
• Step 5: Select Hook-UpDepending on your tie-down system, over-the-top or frame, select the appropriate hook-up and tensioning device. Make sure the entire system is certified to a 4,725 pound capacity.
• Step 6: Locate Wires/CablesMark the location of your electric, cable, gas, water, sewer and phone lines on the ground before you install anchors. Make sure you have located everything prior to digging.
• Step 7: Position Over-The-Top Tie-DownsIf you are installing an exposed over-the-top tie-down, the strap or cable should be positioned over a roof rafter. Protect the edges of your roof with a roof protector of some type. Make sure the strap or cable does not cover a window or door.
• Step 8: Install AnchorYou'll find specific installation instructions with your anchor. Follow them carefully. For a vertical tie-down, the anchor is installed vertically. 
  
  For a frame/diagonal tie-down, the anchor can be installed to the same angle as the tie-down. This angle should be at least 40 degrees. The anchor can be installed vertically if you also install a stabilization device to keep the anchor from moving sideways. A metal stabilization device can be attached to the top of the anchor and buried in the ground. Another option is to pour a concrete collar around the top of the anchor. The collar should be at least 10 inches in diameter and 18 inches deep.
• Step 9: Adjust TensionAlternating from side to side, adjust your tie-downs to the appropriate tension. Don't do one side of your house and then the other.

Remember: Anchoring and tie-down systems vary greatly. It's important for you to contact the local building inspector for regulations regarding anchoring and blocking installation in your community. Regulations vary considerably from one community to the next. In some states, tie-downs aren't required. In other states, tie-downs are stringently regulated and inspected.
To make sure you're tied down safely, consult your local building inspector. 

Looking for Mobile Home insurance?
In addition to following the proper steps to tie-down and anchor your mobile home, make sure you have a good mobile home insurance policy in case the unexpected happens.


Source: Foremost Insurance - Mobile Home Repair - How to Install Tie Downs And Anchors