Why Mobile Home Tie-Downs?
Manufactured homes must have anchors and tie-downs to keep them in place during high winds. Compared to site-built homes, manufactured homes are relatively lightweight. They have flat sides and ends, and they are built on frames rather than foundations. Almost all manufactured homes are elevated, situated on top of some sort of pier or foundation system. Wind can get under the homes and lift them up. In addition, the wind passing over the top of your manufactured home can create an uplift force.
To resist wind forces, you need two different types of tie-downs. In older homes, a vertical or over-the-top tie-down is needed to compensate for the uplift force. A diagonal or frame tie-down is needed to compensate for both lateral and uplift forces. Singlewide manufactured homes need both types of tie-downs. Doublewide homes only need the diagonal ties.

Tie Down Requirements For Manufactured Homes
• Singlewide manufactured homes require both diagonal and vertical ties.
• Doublewide manufactured homes require only diagonal ties.

Length of manufactured home (ft)Number of Vertical Ties per SideNumber of Diagonal Ties per SideNumber of Vertical Ties per SideNumber of Diagonal Ties per Side

• To determine the length, do not include the draw bar.
• Numbers based on minimum working load per anchor of 3,150 pounds, with a 50% overload of 4,725 pounds.
• Diagonal ties must deviate at least 40 degrees from a vertical direction.
• If your home has special site considerations, a registered professional engineer or architect can devise an alternate anchoring system.

Anchoring System Components

• Types Of Tie-Downs.The type of tie-down you select usually depends on when your manufactured home was built. Older homes often have exposed over-the-top tie-downs. This is an effective system, but it does detract from the appearance of your house. The straps are placed over the siding and roof. Until recent years, most manufactured homes came equipped with concealed over-the-top tie-downs. These straps are located just under the exterior siding and metal roof. The end of the strap hangs out under the manufactured home. Newer model homes might not have any type of over-the-top tie-down. Because of increased structural strength of manufactured homes, these models are secured with anchoring straps attached to the home's steel frame rails, called frame anchors. Doublewides are also secured with frame anchors.
• Types Of Anchors.You'll find anchors available for different types of soil conditions, including concrete slab. Auger anchors have been designed for both hard soil and soft soil. Rock anchors or drive anchors allow attachment to a rock or coral base. This type of anchor is also pinned to the ground with crossing steel stakes. If you will be pouring a concrete base, you can install a concrete anchor first. 
  
  You need to know your soil type to select the right anchor. Soil classifications usually include: rock/hard pan, heavy, sandy gravel, heavy sand, silty gravel, clayey gravel, clay, silty clay, clayey silt, uncommitted fill or peat/organic clay. 
  
  Whatever type of anchors you select, carefully follow the installation instructions. Auger anchors (screw-in anchors) can be installed manually by inserting a metal bar through the top of the anchor for added leverage or with a machine designed for this purpose. It's important to screw this type of anchor in. Do not dig a hole to install.
• Hook-Up And Tension Device:The tie-down must be connected to the anchor with a system that allows for adjusting the tension. It must also be weather resistant and strong enough to support as much weight as the anchor and tie-down. If the tie-down is fastened to a ground anchor with a drop-forged turnbuckle, the turnbuckle should be ½ inch or larger galvanized steel. The turnbuckle should have forged or welded eyes, not hook ends.
• The Roof Protector.If you have exposed over-the-top tie-downs, you must have some sort of roof protectors placed under the strap or cable at the edge of the roof. Roof protectors are also called roof brackets, buffers or thimbles. These prevent the tie-down strap or cable from damaging the roof and will prevent the edge of the roof from cutting through the tie-down. Wood blocks will work, and are better than nothing, but commercial protectors will do a better job of distributing the pressure of the cable. Commercial protectors will last longer, too.
• Specifications.Make sure all your anchoring equipment (anchors, turnbuckles, straps, hookups) is capable of resisting an allowable working load of at least 3,150 pounds. The equipment must also be capable of withstanding a 50 percent overload, 4,725 pounds. This also applies to the attachment point on the manufactured home. Only use anchoring equipment that is weather and corrosion resistant. YOU MUST ALIGN EXPOSED OVER-THE-TOP TIE-DOWNS WITH A ROOF RAFTER TO PREVENT DAMAGING THE ROOF. 
  
  Tie-downs can be either cable or strap. If cable is used, it should be galvanized steel or stainless steel. Minimum diameter size is 3/8 inches for 7 x 7, or ¼ inch for “aircraft” cable, 7 x 19. If flat steel strapping is used, it must be a minimum of 1-¼ inches wide x .035 inches thick.
  
  

Tie-Down And Anchor Installation
Installing a tie-down and anchoring system is not too complicated for most do-it-yourselfers. It's wise, however, to seek experienced help to make sure you are using the proper anchor for your soil conditions, enough anchors for your wind conditions, the correct tension on your tie-down, and proper angle for your frame tie-downs. At the very least you should have a building inspector or a trained installer check over your finished work.

• Step 1: Level HouseMake sure your home is level before anchoring it to the ground.
• Step 2: Check ChartsCheck the wind zone chart for your location and determine the required number of anchors recommended for your zone. You should regard this number as the minimum needed for your home.
• Step 3: Determine Soil TypeMerely looking at the ground under your home isn't enough. Some types of anchors need to be installed five feet deep. Talk to a building inspector to determine your soil type. If you will be attaching your tie-downs to a concrete foundation, make sure it is at least 4 inches thick.
• Step 4: Select AnchorsTalk to a supplier or installer for advice. Your soil type will determine the type of anchor.
• Step 5: Select Hook-UpDepending on your tie-down system, over-the-top or frame, select the appropriate hook-up and tensioning device. Make sure the entire system is certified to a 4,725 pound capacity.
• Step 6: Locate Wires/CablesMark the location of your electric, cable, gas, water, sewer and phone lines on the ground before you install anchors. Make sure you have located everything prior to digging.
• Step 7: Position Over-The-Top Tie-DownsIf you are installing an exposed over-the-top tie-down, the strap or cable should be positioned over a roof rafter. Protect the edges of your roof with a roof protector of some type. Make sure the strap or cable does not cover a window or door.
• Step 8: Install AnchorYou'll find specific installation instructions with your anchor. Follow them carefully. For a vertical tie-down, the anchor is installed vertically. 
  
  For a frame/diagonal tie-down, the anchor can be installed to the same angle as the tie-down. This angle should be at least 40 degrees. The anchor can be installed vertically if you also install a stabilization device to keep the anchor from moving sideways. A metal stabilization device can be attached to the top of the anchor and buried in the ground. Another option is to pour a concrete collar around the top of the anchor. The collar should be at least 10 inches in diameter and 18 inches deep.
• Step 9: Adjust TensionAlternating from side to side, adjust your tie-downs to the appropriate tension. Don't do one side of your house and then the other.

Remember: Anchoring and tie-down systems vary greatly. It's important for you to contact the local building inspector for regulations regarding anchoring and blocking installation in your community. Regulations vary considerably from one community to the next. In some states, tie-downs aren't required. In other states, tie-downs are stringently regulated and inspected.
To make sure you're tied down safely, consult your local building inspector. 

Looking for Mobile Home insurance?
In addition to following the proper steps to tie-down and anchor your mobile home, make sure you have a good mobile home insurance policy in case the unexpected happens.


Source: Foremost Insurance - Mobile Home Repair - How to Install Tie Downs And Anchors

A cracked engine from lack of winterization can be very costly. Even more, if you didn't take the time to winterize your boat, those damages may not be covered under your boat insurance policy. That's why it's so important to take some time to winterize your boat. An hour of prevention could save you thousands of dollars and one big headache.

Best Time To Winterize A Boat
The best time to winterize your boat is when you've decided your boating season is over. For locations that have timely seasons it may be easy to figure out what time of year that is. In the Great Lakes region, for example, many boaters target Labor Day weekend as the right time to take their boat out of the water before the cold weather hits. For states like Texas, California or Florida that don't have a typical winter season, deciding when to winterize your boat can be a little harder. In fact, it's in these states that damage due to lack of winterization occurs the most.

How can you winterize if there is no winter?
Winterization is really nothing more that following proper storage procedures. Whether a location has a typical winter or not, you should know how to properly store your boat because even a state like Texas can be hit with cold weather.

Who Is Typically Affected?
According to Glenn Sladek, general claims adjuster for Farmers Insurance, boaters that live in a region that doesn't have a typical winter are the ones that need to be informed of proper boat winterization techniques. "The people that typically get burned are the people that don't have consistent winters. The weatherman says there's going to be a freeze, and unfortunately some people don't take any action to protect their boat. By the time the freeze occurs, the damage is done," says Sladek.

With 21 years of marine claim experience under his belt he has seen a plethora of damages associated with not winterizing boats. Sladek continues, "Winterization should only take an hour for boats under 26 feet and towed on a trailer. If you don't know how, any marine facility or dealer should be able to help you, but it's really not that hard to do."

Follow The Steps Below To Winterize A Boat

1. The biggest step in boat winterization is to make sure ALL water is drained from the vessel. Any water left in pipes, plumbing lines, holding lines, sewage tanks, the lower unit or the engine has the potential to freeze and expand. Damage due to a freeze generally is not covered by your insurance policy, so if you don't know how to extract all the water properly get help from a professional to winterize your vessel.
2. Today's modern fuel doesn't have a good shelf life and it will turn into a unusable gummy substance if you don't get it out of the system. Drain all the fuel from within the engine. Run the engine to get it out of the system making sure that cooling water is circulating through the engine. Once it's out of the system, fill up the fuel tanks so it doesn't develop condensation. Add a fuel preservative to the tank to keep the fuel from vaporizing and protect it from being exposed to the air.
3. To minimize the effects of rust and corrosion, spray a petroleum-based or wax-based spray (like WD40) into the engine. Spray the cylinders and any of the metals that need to be protected.
4. A simple, but often overlooked step is to remove the drain plug if the vessel is being stored ashore for storage. Sitting water in the boat not only has the potential to freeze and cause damage, but the weight of the water could be enough to pop the tires on a trailer and sink it into the ground or damage trailer axles. Remember to unplug the drain to allow any water that gets in-to get out. Just remember to plug it back in before you launch your boat back in the water. Tie the plug on the steering wheel if you need a reminder. It's also a good idea to regularly check the drain plug during the storage period to ensure it's not obstructed.
5. Take down any sunshades, canvases or appendages that could be caught by the wind.
6. Use a good tarp that's waterproof, covers the entire open area of the boat and can hold the weight of snow build-up. Make sure it's tight fitting so rodents can't get into the vessel. Like the drain plug, check the tarp regularly, especially after storms. Brush off snow build-up to alleviate the weight and make sure that rodents or insects haven't made your boat their winter home.
7. If you are storing your boat on a trailer, remove the wheels and block the hubs so they sit off the ground. Cover the hubs with plastic so moisture is kept out. Park your trailer on level ground and out from under trees or limbs. Store the vessel at a slight angle, with the bow of your boat raised slightly. This will allow for proper drainage. While it's stored be sure to check it from time to time to make sure it hasn't tilted or shifted.

Looking For Boat Insurance?
In addition to following the proper steps to winterize your boat, make sure you have a good boat insurance policy in case the unexpected happens. Learn about our Marine Choice® packages.



Source: Foremost Insurance - On The Water - Winterizing Your Boat