Attracting birds
There are so many different kinds of feeders to choose from, each attracting different kinds of birds. Some birds prefer to perch on a small dowel while others prefer to eat right from the ground. Redpolls, nuthatches, woodpeckers and chickadees tend to prefer tube feeders. Jays, finches, sparrows and crossbills like to sit on trays. When you purchase a feeder, don't just think about the style that would look nice in your yard also think about the feeder style that the birds would prefer.

Consider different kinds of food options for the birds. Many people resort to the popular seed mix that usually sells in a large quantity. Seed mix attracts cardinals, jays, nuthatches, chickadees, flickers and white-crowned sparrows. The mixed seed is inexpensive and readily available. But if you watch birds that flock to eat it, you'll see that they intentionally eat the tasty seeds and kick out the artificially flavored seeds from the mix. The seeds they like best are the sunflower seeds. Try a black-oil type sunflower seed to see a variety of birds that will keep coming back for more.

Many birds including sparrows, finches and chickadees favor a beef fat called suet which provides birds with a concentrated source of energy. Suet mixed with peanut butter is a favorite meal for woodpeckers, cardinals, goldfinches, jays, bluebirds, thrushes, and wrens. The winter months are the best time to offer suet so the fat stays cool. Genuine suet will melt and rot leaving a horrendous smell if it's warm. Although you can cook up your own suet, it is best to use an artificial suet made especially for birds. Artificial suet provides the same nutrients but can be used any time of the year.

If you want a specific kind of bird at your feeder make sure to buy the food it will like best. Mourning doves and song sparrows love canary seed. All small finches will devour niger or thistle seed. Look into the varieties of seed available and consider other feeding options as well. Many birds like to eat the foods we do. Jays, chickadees, woodpeckers and nuthatches like peanut hearts. Orioles love grape jelly and orange halves. Try foods like popped popcorn, pieces of melon or other fruit, cereal and cooked oatmeal to see what kinds of birds will come.

If birds aren't coming to your feeder:

• Wait for a few weeks longer. They either have to get used to the feeder or there might be plenty of natural foods around the area. When the food sources begin to dwindle, the birds will find their way back to your feeder.
• Throw away all the seed and thoroughly clean out the feeder. The seed might be infested with harmful bacteria or it might be rotten from getting wet.
• Consider where the feeder is located. Predators might be scaring the birds away.
• Try wrapping some aluminum foil around the top of the feeder. The reflection may lure the birds in to eat.
• When purchasing seed, look at the packaging. It may be infested. A burlap bag lets insects in easily. A plastic bag with patched punctures may indicate a chew hole from bugs. Retailers might store the feed in a place easily infested with insects.

Plant food
Although the same birds might visit a feeder regularly, they do not completely depend on your food for a primary source of energy. Birds get most of their nutrition from eating things like insects, worms and berries. Rather than a feeder, consider planting a tree or shrub that will give a food source to the birds and enhance your landscaping. Birds like to eat from trees such as red cedar, juniper, hawthorn, crab apple, dogwood, hackberry, and sweet gum. Plumb bushes, holly, honeysuckle, currants, barberry, chokeberry, elderberry are favorite plants as well. Check with a gardening store or soil conservation district to see what kinds of native plants will thrive best in your yard.

Water
​Providing a water source is a sure way to attract all species of birds. Whether it's a built-in pond or a simple birdbath, water offers a fresh place for the bird to bathe and drink as opposed to polluted run-off rain and snow. Beginning in autumn to mid-winter, natural sources of food start to dwindle making a feeder and bath most attractive at this time of year. Birds need water most during the winter season when it is in short supply and when they need to warm themselves by bathing. In the winter a heated birdbath offers a warming station and energy source which will quickly be adopted.

Location and time

• Place your feeder near shrubs and trees to provide a protection place for smaller birds. A small bird in an open area makes a quick meal and an easy target for larger birds or other predators.
• Some birds prefer to eat seed spread on the ground. Don't do this if you know of any outdoor cats around your area.
• If you want to hang a feeder from your house, start by placing it away from buildings and then gradually move it closer to the destination point after birds are used to feeding from it.
• When spring rolls around lay dryer lint, yarn scraps and dog hair near the feeder for the birds to use as they nest.
• The busiest mealtime for birds is in the morning and at nightfall.
• If you place a feeder by the window, put a decal on the window. Birds see their reflection in the window and may think they are flying into trees and fly into your window instead. A decal will take away this illusion.

Pests

• To get rid of squirrels that scare away the birds, consider a wire mesh protector, a baffle below or above the feeder or purchase a squirrel-resistant feeder.
• To repel blackbirds and squirrels, try mixing safflower seeds into the feed.
• Be aware of outdoor cats on the loose! Cats are one of the most threatening predators to birds and will look to a bird feeder as easy access to catching dinner.

Feeding

• Large birds eat dog food, a cheaper alternative to seed.
• Birds use grits to help them digest seed. Mix crumbled eggshells in your seed as a grit-alternative and an added calcium source.
• If there are too many birds coming to eat and making a mess, put less seed in the feeder or use a specific kind of feed to attract only the birds you want to see.
• For less mess, use a feeder with a tray under it to catch leftover seeds or seed shells.

Source: https://www.foremost.com/learning-center/bird-feeders.asp

make, the extra time it will take to put the meal together, how the crackers can't touch the dip display, and the fact there may be a finger poke or two in the brownies by the time they're served to our guests.

Source: https://www.foremost.com/learning-center/safe-and-fun-activities-for-kids-in-the-kitchen.asp

For this reason, you should always be prepared and remember these Flood driving safety tips:

• If you see a flooded road ahead, turn around and find a different route to your destination. Rushing water over roads can quickly erode the surface, creating large holes and depressions. A puddle that appears only a couple inches deep can be much deeper.
• Always obey barricades and signs that warn of road flooding. Even if the water looks shallow enough to cross, don't attempt it. Water can be much deeper than it appears and can hide major road hazards, such as washed out areas and holes in the road. Worse yet, rushing water could cause your vehicle to float and carry it away.
• Never go through puddles that are in contact with downed power lines. The lines could send an electrical current through the water, causing a potentially fatal hazard.
• If you have driven through a large puddle or standing water, check your brakes afterwards to make sure they're functioning properly. Do this by gently holding down the brake pedal to ensure that any moisture on the brake rotors or drums won't hinder your car's stopping ability.
• If your car stalls or becomes surrounded by water, do not stay in it. Carefully exit your car, be aware of your surroundings and any hazards, and head toward higher ground.

In addition, if your car has been submerged in floodwater while parked, contact a qualified mechanic for advice before attempting to start it. A thorough inspection may be necessary to ensure all mechanical and electrical parts are free of water damage and functioning properly. Serious damage could occur if you attempt to start it.

Again, you should always refrain from driving on flooded roadways. Although it's not the first thing that comes to mind when most people think about flooding, driving on flooded roads could cause life-threatening injuries.

Looking for Auto Insurance? Your safety while you are driving is important to us. Take a look at quoting an Auto Insurance policy with us. You will get peace of mind knowing your auto insurance policy is backed by experts that will get you on the road quickly and fairly in the event of a loss.

(with drinking water, non-perishable food, first-aid materials, blankets, a battery-powered radio, a flashlight and extra batteries) and your family and immediately move to higher ground. Don't wait for evacuation instructions during a flash flood.

If a flood is likely but hasn't yet occurred
If you have time before a flood affects your home and a flash flood isn't a threat, you should activate your flood plan. Start with moving your valuables to upper floors and securing your outdoor belongings. Turn off utilities at the main valves. Disconnect any electrical appliances, but not if you are wet or standing in water. Listen to the television or radio and follow any instructions.

You should be ready to evacuate. Close and lock your doors and windows. Have your emergency kit handy, as well as you car keys, a charged cell phone, credit cards and insurance information.

During an evacuation
​Once you leave your house, make sure you are aware of the dangers you could encounter while trying to get to higher ground. Here are some rules:

• Do not walk through moving water.
  You can easily fall in as little as six inches of moving water. If you have to walk through water, find a place where the water is stagnant. Use a stick to check how firm the ground is in front of you.
• Do not drive in flooded areas.
  It's easy to misjudge the depth of a flood, but just a little water can pose a big risk to your vehicle. Six inches of water is enough to reach the bottom of most passenger vehicles and cause a loss of control. A foot of water will float most vehicles and two feet of rushing water is powerful enough to carry away sport utility vehicles (SUVs) and pick-up trucks.
• Watch the roads.
  Roads may have cracked or been washed away in a flood. Pay attention the condition of the streets you're driving.
• If water rises around your car, react quickly if it's safe.
  Abandon the vehicle and move to higher ground if possible.
• If you come in contact with floodwater, wash your hands with soap and clean water as soon as possible, because you don't know what chemicals may be mixed in the floodwater.

Again, the most important thing for you to do in a flood is to make sure you and your family are safe. When it comes to minimizing damage and increasing safety during a flood, it is beneficial to prepare. ​

wind or hail damage or improper installation of vents, flues, chimneys, air conditioners, evaporative coolers or condensers can all result in roof leaks. Regular inspections and maintenance can prevent problems before they begin. Inspect your roof for punctures, cracks or breaks. Clean any you find and apply a compatible patching compound or sealant. Each year, clean and inspect rain gutters, downspouts and extensions for leaks or holes. All types of manufactured home roofs should be checked once a year – whether shingled, metal, vinyl or fiberglass.

To avoid damage to the seals and seams of your roof, keep your weight directly on the rafters. If you have a bowstring or low-pitch rafter, place a plywood sheet across the rafter so you can distribute your weight evenly. While on the roof remove dirt, leaves, branches and any other debris on your roof or gutter – especially any item that may cause a roof puncture.

Seal metal roofs with a good commercial manufactured home roof coating at least every other year – more often in some climates. Apply roof coating around all vents and seams and use coating along the drip edge of the roof. Make sure to cover all exposed screw heads, fasteners and other areas susceptible to leaking. Don't forget to inspect and seal the roof around vents and chimneys. Look for and repair loose, damaged or missing shingles, missing or damaged vent caps, raised nail heads and anything else that's in disrepair or could cause damage.

Outside walls, doors and windows
Inspect outside walls, doors and windows each spring and fall for unusual wear or tear. Water and moisture can penetrate these common areas if they're not maintained regularly. Repair or replace caulk, weather stripping, glazing, window seals, door seals or any other exterior area damaged by use, abuse or normal weathering. Examine your exterior siding and replace any missing or damaged fasteners or screws. Repair or replace punctured siding.

Remember to look under your home for sagging, torn or water-spotted bottom barrier. This can indicate poor or damaged insulation, which may cause water lines to freeze and break. These symptoms also can indicate an existing leak.

Check your home's pneumatic storm door closer and safety chain. If these are loose or not working properly the storm door may blow open. That lets water in and can cause additional damage. Inspect exterior doors, especially wooden ones, for wear and tear and cracking.

Also check weather stripping and seals as well as the sill and the threshold for signs of leaking or other damage. Inspect the putty or caulking around metal windows. Clean and remove cracked or dried-out material and replace it with an upgraded sealant or caulk.

Eliminate excess moisture
Today's well-built, well-insulated homes can trap excess moisture and condensation inside, especially if you have inadequate ventilation. This unwanted moisture shows up as: musty odors, rusty stains around light fixtures, damp, sticky floors, mildew along the ceiling, wall and baseboard edges, dripping pipes, condensation on windows and cold surfaces, and mold and mildew growth.

Good preventive maintenance can help eliminate many moisture problems. Keep inside air circulating with vents and fans to avoid condensation. Use exhaust fans in the bathroom when showering. It's a good idea to have an exhaust fan installed in your laundry area and use it when doing laundry. Also, make sure your dryer is vented to the outside.

Fix leaky faucets and dripping toilets. In cold climates, water flowing down the drain under the home may freeze, causing water to back up through the drain lines and into your home. Invest in a good portable dehumidifier with a humidity control. Choose one that shuts off automatically when the collector pan is full.

Use storm windows to help conserve energy and keep condensation from forming on windows. An added benefit – they help reduce heat loss.

Be sure the skirting around the base of your home is well ventilated and allows air to circulate freely, to help eliminate unwanted moisture being drawn into the sub-flooring of your manufactured home.

Inside your home
Obviously a dripping pipe can cause water damage inside your home. To find problems before they cause damage here are some tips: Listen for any unusual hissing sounds. This can be a pinhole leak in a water line within the floor or wall. Periodically check hard-to-reach, seldom seen spaces around the water heater, under sinks and behind clothes washers. Check the ice maker lines and filters for your refrigerator, too.

Look for discolored floor coverings or sub floors – usually a sign of a leak. Water stains and wetness are often caused by loose or damaged plumbing fixtures or fittings. Moisture at the base of a toilet may indicate a deteriorated wax ring, which is easily replaced. If you discover interior water damage correct the problem immediately. If you can't make the repair yourself, hire a qualified repair person.

If your water supply has over 80 pounds of pressure, consider having your repair person install a pressure regulator to help avoid high water pressures that may cause a line rupture or leak.

Emergency tips
If you discover a build-up of water on the floor, find standing water in your home or experience severe, sudden and accidental water damage, take steps to begin ventilating and drying out your home immediately.

Here are some precautions to start with until help arrives:

• Shut off the water source, if possible.
• Protect your property from further damage with temporary, reasonable and necessary repairs, like plywood or plastic covers over roof or wall openings.
• Move household items to an undamaged area of your home or cover them with plastic. Mop, blot up or wet vac as much water as possible.
• Don't leave books, magazines or other colored items on wet carpeting. Remove oriental or other colored throw rugs from wet wall-to-wall carpeting. Remove the pad from under saturated carpets Place wood blocks or aluminum foil between furniture legs and wet carpeting.
• Wipe excess water from wood furniture. Open drawers and cabinets to aid in faster drying. Open windows to speed drying.
• Turn on the air conditioner or fans for maximum drying in hot weather, as long as it's safe for you to use electricity.
• Make small holes in sagging ceilings to get rid of trapped water. Be sure to put a pan or bucket below to catch the water before you make a hole. And don't turn on a ceiling fixture if the ceiling is wet – don't mix water and electricity!
• Remove any insulation that is wet and have it replaced with new, dry insulation.
• Treat minor mold growths quickly with a solution of one cup chlorine bleach to one gallon of water. Leave this solution on the mold for approximately 15 minutes to kill the mold spores. Be sure to take proper precautions when using chlorine bleach.

After you've made temporary repairs and are ready to start putting your home back together, be sure to:

• Make sure that flooring and carpets are dry before starting any repairs or making replacements.
• Hire a professional to clean and re-lay your carpet after the carpet pad has been replaced.
• If you discover mold in the areas you are cleaning, consider calling in a professional cleaning firm. Some molds can cause health problems.

Clean-up cautions
Stay safe while you clean up. Don't use your household vacuum to remove water. Don't use appliances while standing on wet carpets or floors. Don't leave wet fabrics in place. Dry them quickly. Prop up wet upholstered cushions for even drying.

you'd like. Things to consider are the window's location, whether you want a smaller or larger replacement, and the way the original window was mounted on your home. Don't assume that you must replace your old window with an exact duplicate. Many new energy-efficient windows, in a variety of styles, are made for manufactured homes.

Before you go shopping, determine the size of your existing window and check if the window is flush-mounted or mounted for lap siding. A flush-mounted window frame screws on over the siding. If the window has a lap-siding mount, the siding covers the window frame screws. Your new window should have the same type of mount as your current window, for appearance and ease of installation.
Before you order a new window, you may want to remove your old window and check that the opening is square. To do that, remove your window, and measure the opening diagonals corner to corner or use a framing square to measure the opening.

If the window opening is slightly off-square, you can use shims to fit in a new window. If the opening is significantly off-square, you can reduce the window opening by roughing a new, square frame for a smaller window or you can enlarge the opening for a larger window. It's usually easier to reduce the opening and install a smaller window.

If you are replacing a bedroom window, and it's the only exit from the bedroom to the outside, you probably won't be able to make the opening smaller. Bedroom windows that serve as egress windows in case of fire must meet minimum code requirements.

To replace your window, you'll need screws, putty tape, silicone sealant, and a screwdriver and/or replaceable drill with screwhead bits. When you purchase your new window, check with the window supplier about any special tools or screwhead bits you'll need.

• Step 1: Remove siding You can skip this step if your frame is mounted over vertical siding. If your frame is mounted under lap siding, remove the siding around the window. Be careful – if you bend aluminum siding, you will not be able to get rid of the resulting crease.
• Step 2: Remove window Using a reversible drill and proper screwhead bit, remove the screws around the edges of the frame. Note the size and type of screw. It's best not to reuse these screws. Instead, use new screws the same diameter and slightly longer than the originals. Once all the screws are out, remove the old window and frame.
  Scrape off all the old putty tape from the opening and frame. Apply new putty tape around the window frame. For extra moisture protection, apply two thicknesses of putty tape at the top of the opening. Applying putty tape is very important, especially if you have vertical siding. The tape fills any gaps between the window frame and the siding.
• Step 3: Replace window Start by inserting one screw in the middle of all four sides. Be sure the screws go in straight. Do not tighten screws. Check to make sure the window is square before inserting more screws. After you have used about half the screws, open and close the window a few times to see that it is square and does not bind. Put in the remaining screws and tighten.
• Step 4: Seal Run a bead of clear silicone sealant along the top of the window where it meets the siding. Replace any siding that was removed.

Summer is slowly making it's way here and before you get out on the open road, make sure you have the correct coverage for your RV:

"It's a good idea to consider specialized coverage for your recreational vehicle (RV)," says Foremost Insurance Group Senior Product Manager Randy Sellhorn. "It functions as a motorized vehicle some of the time and a home some of the time—having coverage for both of these purposes typically doesn't come from just an auto policy or a home policy."

Here are top questions Sellhorn suggests you ask your agent or broker when you are deciding what coverage to purchase for your RV.

1. Is my optional equipment covered? "Awnings, air conditioners, satellite dishes, LP tanks and bike racks can all be damaged, so ask if these things are covered by your policy," suggests Sellhorn. "Be sure to discuss whether the coverage applies only to originally affixed equipment or if it includes equipment that you attach after purchasing your RV. A good policy will give you a set amount of coverage included with your comprehensive coverage, with the ability to purchase more."
2. Is my personal property inside the motor home or travel trailer covered? "Chances are you are packing your camping, cooking and other traveling equipment for your trip, including golf clubs or other things for entertainment," Sellhorn adds. "You can typically choose coverage for these items as part of a package. The one thing to double check about personal property is sometimes your homeowner's policy can have exceptions regarding coverage for personal property in a motorized vehicle. Your agent can help you figure out your best option."
3. What type of coverage is best for me—Replacement Cost or Actual Cash Value? "Replacement cost coverage protects your motor home from the effects of depreciation and usually isn't available with an auto policy," explains Sellhorn. "With a Replacement Cost policy, if your new-model motor home is destroyed within a certain period of time after purchase, the insurance company will replace it with a brand new one of similar kind and quality. If your motor home is destroyed and you only have an Actual Cash Value policy, which is typically what you'd get with an auto policy, you will only be paid the current value of your motor home."
4. What payment plans are available? "Whether you want to pay in full or in installments, having the flexibility to choose is an important option," offers Sellhorn. "Talk to your agent or broker. Insurance companies offer many different plans such as one-pay, four-pay or ten-pay options."
5. Is towing or roadside assistance available? "Towing and Roadside Assistance is a great coverage to have if your motor home or travel trailer breaks down and can include towing, jump starts, roadside service, flat tire changes, fuel delivery and locksmith services," adds Sellhorn. "Specialized coverage is important and can exceed what you would get from an auto policy. You'll want to be covered 24/7 by experts who have the equipment and parts to help with a bigger vehicle like an RV. Ask if coverage extends to any vehicles you may be towing behind you."
6. What about special coverages for full-timers or vacationers? "Some insurance companies offer these special coverages, which may cover full-timers when they are parked and using their RV as a residence," says Sellhorn. "You can also ask about vacation liability, which may cover you in case you are found responsible for someone else's injury in your motor home while it's parked. Again, exclusions in your homeowners policy may play into what type of coverage you want to purchase for your RV, so take this into consideration when you discuss your options."
   
   Source: https://www.foremost.com/learning-center/top-motor-hometravel-trailer-questions-to-ask-your-insurance-agency.asp