sane as preparations are made to start the next chapter of life. If you're also planning on a move, don't you fret! Follow along beginning to end as we create a tolerable moving experience for ourselves.
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This four-part series will prepare you for the move, teach you effective and time-saving hacks for packing, help you organize the moving-out process, and get you ready to move into your new home. Let's start off by checking these items off our list.

• Change over utilities you will be responsible for in your new abode as soon as possible.
• Acquire packing supplies so you can begin to stow away the items you may not need directly before or after the move. This includes sturdy moving boxes of different sizes, packing tape, labels, permanent marker, and bubble wrap. If you're not interested in forking over a ton of money for the boxes, check out your local retailers – they might be able to give you a deal on their used shipment boxes. Remember to stop by our blog again next week so you don't struggle bus through the rest of the packing process.
• Notify important parties like banks, credit card companies, insurance providers, and magazine and newspaper services of your impending move so you don't end up without any money, insurance, or entertainment. We offer customers a stress-free way to navigate updating your insurance policy through the online form or just call the agency, let us know you're moving, and we'll take care of the rest.
• Set up mail forwarding with your post office. Hopefully, most of the mail will be relocated to your new place, but consider contacting a close neighbor to look out for those stragglers after you've moved.
• Sort and purge the different rooms in your house and decide what you'd like to keep and what you're willing to get rid of. While going through this process, also consider whether any items will require special packaging or extra insurance coverage – that piano isn't gonna go as easily as your place-mats might.
• Organize school records for any children if you're planning a move out of your current school district. Visit the schools and arrange for your children's records to be transferred to their new school district.
• Take measurements of your new home so you know if that piece of furniture will fit through the door or in your living room.
• Highly consider requesting time off from work so you can be fully involved on moving day. Having the option to supervise the move, whether it be movers or family-friends, is very important and keeps everyone accountable for what goes on.
• Empty, clean, and defrost the freezer at least 24 hours in advance if you plan on taking your refrigerator with you. This will give your fridge the time to get rid of that moisture and prevent a waterfall when people try to move it. Check out these tips if you don't know what you're doing.

Good luck, and make sure to check out our other blogs we've made to help you save a ton of time and effort in packing up your home.

Snowmobiling is easily one of the most exhilarating winter pastimes. Whipping around in the snow and feeling the cold breeze on your face brings such a rush of adrenaline that can't be easily matched. Not to mention, they are a great way of getting around when the snow piles up! If you're considering buying one of your own snowmobiles, you're probably asking a lot of questions about what to consider when making the purchase, especially because these sleds can be quite an expensive investment.

We want to make sure you are prepared to invest your money on the best snowmobile you can find which is why we're also here to help you with snowmobile insurance — here are some tips that will get you out on the trail with the best sled around!

Be realistic about what you need
Your budget, ability, and location are all important factors when considering the purchase. How much money do you want to spend? Is newness important to you? Are you an experienced snowmobiler? These are all valid questions to ask yourself before you begin your search.

Consider buying a used snowmobile
These babies can still be some of the most reliable sleds around. Buying a used snowmobile will give you all the fun with a lower price tag, which is always appreciated!

Research different brands
Every brand out there has some great snowmobiles, but asking friends and family who own snowmobiles of their own will help you make a more educated assessment on what brand to continue with. A personal story gives you a trusted source to base your decision on.

Look under the hood
If you are buying a used snowmobile, check the hood! If the engine and clutches are dirty and covered in oil, it might not be the best idea to make the purchase. A clean sled is a healthy sled! Start the snowmobile up and let it run for 5 to 10 minutes. It should rev consistently and will give you some time to check out the different lights and other electric functions of the sled.

Ask questions
Whether you are buying new or used, asking questions is the best way to make sure you are making the most educated investment possible. Good salespeople/previous owners will know the sled and will be able to answer any question you may have.


Consider added costs
Your initial purchase will be the most expensive, but supplying fuel, maintaining insurance, keeping up with maintenance costs, and remembering registration charges go hand in hand with the original investment.


No matter what you decide, we hope you will have an exciting and safe winter sporting season.

J: How did you get started with your business?

B: On starting Harris, Reed & Seiferth Insurance Group, I was looking for a career and life change, and a business that I could dedicate my life to building and nurturing. I wanted to build something that I could establish financial strength, freedom and independence for myself, and also provide that fortitude to my clients. I felt this business called upon all of my aspirations and business experiences. It enabled me to build a career that provides me and those lives I touch with lasting purpose and honor. I set very high standards of excellence and integrity for myself, my staff and the results I provide to my clients, which provides me with the foundation to earn the opportunity to work with the people I dedicate myself to.


J: How do you make use of Google products in your business?

B: G Suite is a key player for us, coupled with the ability to incorporate apps like DocHub, Contacts, Analytics, Forms, Drive, Hangouts, Calendar. Even Maps keeps us running efficiently. We're always looking for latest Google updates on recommended partner applications.  


J: What’s your biggest challenge today?

B: Unplugging. I’m HORRIBLE at this. I try to put conditions in place so that I don’t email after 8pm and I don’t respond to clients after 12pm on Saturday, but it always seems to creep in.


J: What do you hope for in a year’s time?

B: As we are currently licensed in seven states, we are hoping to solidify licenses for the remaining, or at least half, within the next year.


J: What’s your best advice for a new business owner?

B: Anything is possible. Dream big, aim high in your ethical and professional standards of excellence and, with relentless dedication, you can achieve a business and life that is filled with great purpose, substance and fulfillment.

On behalf of the Small Business Community, thank you Britany.
Did you enjoy reading this post? Share your comments and questions right here.
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Experiencing a loss can be stressful, frustrating and disheartening, but having insurance coverage will help alleviate the financial burden a loss can cause. The first step in restoring your property and moving forward is to determine if your policy provides coverage for the loss. To do this you need to file a claim with the insurer. While the claims process isn't something many eagerly look forward to, there are definitely ways you can make it a less stressful experience. To help you successfully navigate the process, here are several tips for effectively and efficiently filing claims.

Keep an inventory of all your insured possessions.
Be proactive! If you keep a written document of your possessions, it can help make the claims process much easier if you experience a loss. Go from room to room and record each item and its value to prepare an inventory. An easy way to do this is to take photos or videos of each room and all of the contents in the rooms. Consider keeping receipts with the purchase date and original cost for your records too, in case of total loss. Your inventory list should be consistently updated, which can be done easily if you record new items shortly after purchasing them. Pro Tip: Your inventory should be easily accessible. It is a good idea to keep a couple copies of your inventory at different locations, with one location being off-premises in case of a total loss, like a fire.

Reach out to your agent first.
In the event of a potential claim, it's best to contact your agent directly instead of the broader insurance provider. Your agent will be able to explain your options and advise on whether filing a claim is in your best interest. In some cases, your agent may even file the claim for you.

Report your loss promptly.
Always file your claim as soon as you possibly can. Of course, theft losses should be reported to the police first, and in other situations of danger and urgency, safety takes priority. But once it's safe and reasonable to do so, you should contact your insurance agent. This is important because your policy might require you to make the notification within a certain amount of time. Not filing a claim within the time required in your policy may lead to a denial of the claim or may result in the claims process taking longer.

Be prepared with the right information.
When you file your claim or make follow-up calls regarding the process, be sure to have the right information so your conversation is easier and more effective. Have your inventory list and the details of your loss, and keep the following information handy for your claims representative:

• The customer's name and address
• The policy number
• The date the loss happened
• A description of what happened
• A preferred telephone number for future contact

Provide complete, correct information.
Explain the situation accurately without downplaying or exaggerating your loss. Incorrect or incomplete information may cause complications and delays in processing the claim. Additionally, materially misrepresenting the facts of your loss may result in a loss of coverage.

Record important details from all correspondence.
While going through the claims process, be sure to write down important information from your phone conversations and in-person meetings with claims representatives and other contacts. This should include the time and date, as well as the name and title of the person you spoke with. This will help you stay organized and create records that may come in handy later.

Make appropriate emergency repairs.
If you're dealing with property damage it may be necessary to make immediate emergency repairs to prevent additional damages, such as calling a plumber to repair a broken pipe. Your policy might cover the costs of these emergency repairs, so be sure to inquire about them when filing the claim. It is also important to take photos or even videos before making the repairs, and save the receipts from all of the work that is done.

Ask questions.
Don't be afraid to ask your claims representative for more information or clarification. The process will go much more smoothly if you are both on the same page and fully understand each other. For example, if there is a disagreement about the coverage of the claim, ask for the specific language in the policy that is in question to find out if it is a matter of differing interpretations.

Overall, it's important to have patience because every insurance claim is different! Some may be completed quickly, while others may take a few weeks or even months to be resolved. You never know when problems will arise, but these tips can help you to effectively address the situations and smoothly navigate the claims process.

Why Mobile Home Tie-Downs?
Manufactured homes must have anchors and tie-downs to keep them in place during high winds. Compared to site-built homes, manufactured homes are relatively lightweight. They have flat sides and ends, and they are built on frames rather than foundations. Almost all manufactured homes are elevated, situated on top of some sort of pier or foundation system. Wind can get under the homes and lift them up. In addition, the wind passing over the top of your manufactured home can create an uplift force.
To resist wind forces, you need two different types of tie-downs. In older homes, a vertical or over-the-top tie-down is needed to compensate for the uplift force. A diagonal or frame tie-down is needed to compensate for both lateral and uplift forces. Singlewide manufactured homes need both types of tie-downs. Doublewide homes only need the diagonal ties.

Tie Down Requirements For Manufactured Homes
• Singlewide manufactured homes require both diagonal and vertical ties.
• Doublewide manufactured homes require only diagonal ties.

Length of manufactured home (ft)Number of Vertical Ties per SideNumber of Diagonal Ties per SideNumber of Vertical Ties per SideNumber of Diagonal Ties per Side

• To determine the length, do not include the draw bar.
• Numbers based on minimum working load per anchor of 3,150 pounds, with a 50% overload of 4,725 pounds.
• Diagonal ties must deviate at least 40 degrees from a vertical direction.
• If your home has special site considerations, a registered professional engineer or architect can devise an alternate anchoring system.

Anchoring System Components

• Types Of Tie-Downs.The type of tie-down you select usually depends on when your manufactured home was built. Older homes often have exposed over-the-top tie-downs. This is an effective system, but it does detract from the appearance of your house. The straps are placed over the siding and roof. Until recent years, most manufactured homes came equipped with concealed over-the-top tie-downs. These straps are located just under the exterior siding and metal roof. The end of the strap hangs out under the manufactured home. Newer model homes might not have any type of over-the-top tie-down. Because of increased structural strength of manufactured homes, these models are secured with anchoring straps attached to the home's steel frame rails, called frame anchors. Doublewides are also secured with frame anchors.
• Types Of Anchors.You'll find anchors available for different types of soil conditions, including concrete slab. Auger anchors have been designed for both hard soil and soft soil. Rock anchors or drive anchors allow attachment to a rock or coral base. This type of anchor is also pinned to the ground with crossing steel stakes. If you will be pouring a concrete base, you can install a concrete anchor first. 
  
  You need to know your soil type to select the right anchor. Soil classifications usually include: rock/hard pan, heavy, sandy gravel, heavy sand, silty gravel, clayey gravel, clay, silty clay, clayey silt, uncommitted fill or peat/organic clay. 
  
  Whatever type of anchors you select, carefully follow the installation instructions. Auger anchors (screw-in anchors) can be installed manually by inserting a metal bar through the top of the anchor for added leverage or with a machine designed for this purpose. It's important to screw this type of anchor in. Do not dig a hole to install.
• Hook-Up And Tension Device:The tie-down must be connected to the anchor with a system that allows for adjusting the tension. It must also be weather resistant and strong enough to support as much weight as the anchor and tie-down. If the tie-down is fastened to a ground anchor with a drop-forged turnbuckle, the turnbuckle should be ½ inch or larger galvanized steel. The turnbuckle should have forged or welded eyes, not hook ends.
• The Roof Protector.If you have exposed over-the-top tie-downs, you must have some sort of roof protectors placed under the strap or cable at the edge of the roof. Roof protectors are also called roof brackets, buffers or thimbles. These prevent the tie-down strap or cable from damaging the roof and will prevent the edge of the roof from cutting through the tie-down. Wood blocks will work, and are better than nothing, but commercial protectors will do a better job of distributing the pressure of the cable. Commercial protectors will last longer, too.
• Specifications.Make sure all your anchoring equipment (anchors, turnbuckles, straps, hookups) is capable of resisting an allowable working load of at least 3,150 pounds. The equipment must also be capable of withstanding a 50 percent overload, 4,725 pounds. This also applies to the attachment point on the manufactured home. Only use anchoring equipment that is weather and corrosion resistant. YOU MUST ALIGN EXPOSED OVER-THE-TOP TIE-DOWNS WITH A ROOF RAFTER TO PREVENT DAMAGING THE ROOF. 
  
  Tie-downs can be either cable or strap. If cable is used, it should be galvanized steel or stainless steel. Minimum diameter size is 3/8 inches for 7 x 7, or ¼ inch for “aircraft” cable, 7 x 19. If flat steel strapping is used, it must be a minimum of 1-¼ inches wide x .035 inches thick.
  
  

Tie-Down And Anchor Installation
Installing a tie-down and anchoring system is not too complicated for most do-it-yourselfers. It's wise, however, to seek experienced help to make sure you are using the proper anchor for your soil conditions, enough anchors for your wind conditions, the correct tension on your tie-down, and proper angle for your frame tie-downs. At the very least you should have a building inspector or a trained installer check over your finished work.

• Step 1: Level HouseMake sure your home is level before anchoring it to the ground.
• Step 2: Check ChartsCheck the wind zone chart for your location and determine the required number of anchors recommended for your zone. You should regard this number as the minimum needed for your home.
• Step 3: Determine Soil TypeMerely looking at the ground under your home isn't enough. Some types of anchors need to be installed five feet deep. Talk to a building inspector to determine your soil type. If you will be attaching your tie-downs to a concrete foundation, make sure it is at least 4 inches thick.
• Step 4: Select AnchorsTalk to a supplier or installer for advice. Your soil type will determine the type of anchor.
• Step 5: Select Hook-UpDepending on your tie-down system, over-the-top or frame, select the appropriate hook-up and tensioning device. Make sure the entire system is certified to a 4,725 pound capacity.
• Step 6: Locate Wires/CablesMark the location of your electric, cable, gas, water, sewer and phone lines on the ground before you install anchors. Make sure you have located everything prior to digging.
• Step 7: Position Over-The-Top Tie-DownsIf you are installing an exposed over-the-top tie-down, the strap or cable should be positioned over a roof rafter. Protect the edges of your roof with a roof protector of some type. Make sure the strap or cable does not cover a window or door.
• Step 8: Install AnchorYou'll find specific installation instructions with your anchor. Follow them carefully. For a vertical tie-down, the anchor is installed vertically. 
  
  For a frame/diagonal tie-down, the anchor can be installed to the same angle as the tie-down. This angle should be at least 40 degrees. The anchor can be installed vertically if you also install a stabilization device to keep the anchor from moving sideways. A metal stabilization device can be attached to the top of the anchor and buried in the ground. Another option is to pour a concrete collar around the top of the anchor. The collar should be at least 10 inches in diameter and 18 inches deep.
• Step 9: Adjust TensionAlternating from side to side, adjust your tie-downs to the appropriate tension. Don't do one side of your house and then the other.

Remember: Anchoring and tie-down systems vary greatly. It's important for you to contact the local building inspector for regulations regarding anchoring and blocking installation in your community. Regulations vary considerably from one community to the next. In some states, tie-downs aren't required. In other states, tie-downs are stringently regulated and inspected.
To make sure you're tied down safely, consult your local building inspector. 

Looking for Mobile Home insurance?
In addition to following the proper steps to tie-down and anchor your mobile home, make sure you have a good mobile home insurance policy in case the unexpected happens.


Source: Foremost Insurance - Mobile Home Repair - How to Install Tie Downs And Anchors

A cracked engine from lack of winterization can be very costly. Even more, if you didn't take the time to winterize your boat, those damages may not be covered under your boat insurance policy. That's why it's so important to take some time to winterize your boat. An hour of prevention could save you thousands of dollars and one big headache.

Best Time To Winterize A Boat
The best time to winterize your boat is when you've decided your boating season is over. For locations that have timely seasons it may be easy to figure out what time of year that is. In the Great Lakes region, for example, many boaters target Labor Day weekend as the right time to take their boat out of the water before the cold weather hits. For states like Texas, California or Florida that don't have a typical winter season, deciding when to winterize your boat can be a little harder. In fact, it's in these states that damage due to lack of winterization occurs the most.

How can you winterize if there is no winter?
Winterization is really nothing more that following proper storage procedures. Whether a location has a typical winter or not, you should know how to properly store your boat because even a state like Texas can be hit with cold weather.

Who Is Typically Affected?
According to Glenn Sladek, general claims adjuster for Farmers Insurance, boaters that live in a region that doesn't have a typical winter are the ones that need to be informed of proper boat winterization techniques. "The people that typically get burned are the people that don't have consistent winters. The weatherman says there's going to be a freeze, and unfortunately some people don't take any action to protect their boat. By the time the freeze occurs, the damage is done," says Sladek.

With 21 years of marine claim experience under his belt he has seen a plethora of damages associated with not winterizing boats. Sladek continues, "Winterization should only take an hour for boats under 26 feet and towed on a trailer. If you don't know how, any marine facility or dealer should be able to help you, but it's really not that hard to do."

Follow The Steps Below To Winterize A Boat

1. The biggest step in boat winterization is to make sure ALL water is drained from the vessel. Any water left in pipes, plumbing lines, holding lines, sewage tanks, the lower unit or the engine has the potential to freeze and expand. Damage due to a freeze generally is not covered by your insurance policy, so if you don't know how to extract all the water properly get help from a professional to winterize your vessel.
2. Today's modern fuel doesn't have a good shelf life and it will turn into a unusable gummy substance if you don't get it out of the system. Drain all the fuel from within the engine. Run the engine to get it out of the system making sure that cooling water is circulating through the engine. Once it's out of the system, fill up the fuel tanks so it doesn't develop condensation. Add a fuel preservative to the tank to keep the fuel from vaporizing and protect it from being exposed to the air.
3. To minimize the effects of rust and corrosion, spray a petroleum-based or wax-based spray (like WD40) into the engine. Spray the cylinders and any of the metals that need to be protected.
4. A simple, but often overlooked step is to remove the drain plug if the vessel is being stored ashore for storage. Sitting water in the boat not only has the potential to freeze and cause damage, but the weight of the water could be enough to pop the tires on a trailer and sink it into the ground or damage trailer axles. Remember to unplug the drain to allow any water that gets in-to get out. Just remember to plug it back in before you launch your boat back in the water. Tie the plug on the steering wheel if you need a reminder. It's also a good idea to regularly check the drain plug during the storage period to ensure it's not obstructed.
5. Take down any sunshades, canvases or appendages that could be caught by the wind.
6. Use a good tarp that's waterproof, covers the entire open area of the boat and can hold the weight of snow build-up. Make sure it's tight fitting so rodents can't get into the vessel. Like the drain plug, check the tarp regularly, especially after storms. Brush off snow build-up to alleviate the weight and make sure that rodents or insects haven't made your boat their winter home.
7. If you are storing your boat on a trailer, remove the wheels and block the hubs so they sit off the ground. Cover the hubs with plastic so moisture is kept out. Park your trailer on level ground and out from under trees or limbs. Store the vessel at a slight angle, with the bow of your boat raised slightly. This will allow for proper drainage. While it's stored be sure to check it from time to time to make sure it hasn't tilted or shifted.

Looking For Boat Insurance?
In addition to following the proper steps to winterize your boat, make sure you have a good boat insurance policy in case the unexpected happens. Learn about our Marine Choice® packages.



Source: Foremost Insurance - On The Water - Winterizing Your Boat

​Memorial Day is just a few weeks away, which means boat season is upon us! It’s now time put some work into getting your vessel ready to launch. Below we’ve compiled de-winterization steps you’ll need to take to get your boat ready, as well as more general safety and maintenance tips.
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Before reading this it is important to note that there are many types and sizes of boats, as this will cover a lot of steps for preparation, you should create your own spring checklist based on the complexities of your particular vessel; just be sure to consult your Owner’s Manual if you are a do-it-yourselfer.



For starters, safety first!

• Inspect your life jackets to make sure they are in good condition and do not need to be replaced.
• Make sure each person that gets on the boat with you wear a life jacket that is their size and is made for their exact body weight.
• Check the fire extinguishers present in your boat to determine if they are the correct class for your boat. Ensure they are charged and placed in their proper location on the boat.
• Make sure the carbon monoxide detectors are installed in all enclosed and partially enclosed areas on your boat. Ensure they work properly.
• If you do not have one already, you should invest in an Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB), as they are useful in the event you get lost at sea.

Now let’s get into some pre-launch maintenance and inspection

• Ensure the shaft seal is not wet when you dock your boat.
• Examine deck fittings, hatches, and portlights. You are looking for displaced caulking, dirt, water trails, and green corrosion. If you find any leak, you need to re-caulk them.
• Examine the GPS and VHF antenna connections. Disconnect, spray it with a moisture displacing lubricant, and reconnect.

Docked Boat Inspection

• Change the plastic fittings close to the waterline with Marelon or bronze.
• Examine the outdrive, anodes on the shaft, and trim tabs, replacing any that have become worn out.
• Examine the props for distortion, pitting, and dinging. Ensure the cotter pins are secure. Move the shaft by holding the prop and if it is loose, replace the cutlass bearing. Inspect the rudderstock to ensure it is not bent.

Fuel System Inspection 

• Check the engine, ventilation, and exhaust systems to ensure they proper functioning.
• Do not pump until you fill your tank with fuel. The fuel should not contain over 10 percent ethanol because it will cause malfunctioning.
• Examine the fuel system for damage or leaks. Check out the connections, tank surfaces, and fuel hoses for leaks. Brittleness, softness, and cracking are all evidence of a fuel hose that needs to be replaced.
• Replace components if necessary and double check to ensure the clamps and fittings are secured.

Engine and Other Systems Inspection

• Change engine oil and check the fluid levels in the transmission, coolant, and hydraulic steering fluid.
• Examine belts for wear and tension.
• Examine the outer jacket. You are looking for swelling and cracks. If you find cracks and swelling, you need to replace the cable. You can apply waterproof grease at the ends.
•  Gasoline lines should state “USCG Approved, J1527” because if they do not, replace them.
• If the raw water impellers are more than a year old, you need to replace them.
• Inspect freshwater and raw-water for seepage. If you find seepage, you need to replace a gasket.
• Look at exhaust manifolds. You are looking for water seepage and corrosion. If you find either one of those, you have a blockage. If you find an issue with it, you need to remove the exhaust manifolds.
• Replace fuel filters and clean or replace the air filter.
• Replace the gaskets located at the heat exchanger. You should replace them each year, as doing so, prevents corrosion. By replacing it, you can check for gunk that clogs up the stacks.

Topsides, Hull, and Deck Inspection

• Apply antifouling paint. It is not a good idea to use copper-based paint to paint your running gear without applying a barrier coat first and do not paint your transducers.
• Only wash non-skid areas, not wax them.
• Remove the tarp off your boat. Dry, fold, and keep it away. If you have covered your board using shrink-wrap, you can recycle it.
• Apply antifouling paint. It is not a good idea to use copper-based paint to paint your running gear without applying a barrier coat first and do not paint your transducers.
• You can also use an electric buffer. Examine the pad, removing debris from it. Keep moving the electric buffer because if you continue to use it on one area of the boat, it may create problems.
• You need to wax your boat’s topsides with a marine paste-wax. Marine paste-wax will make your shine and protect it. Plus, in comparison to other products, it lasts longer.
• You should place the drain plug before you take your boat out on the water.

Whether you are relatively new to the sea or a seasoned skipper, you need to have a game plan for getting your boat ready – from basic spring boat maintenance to tackling projects reserved for out of the water.

​​Although many cavities need immediate attention to avoid serious complications, there are situations, when a cavity is small or just beginning, that treatment with a filling or drilling can wait or may even be prevented. It is up to your employees’ dentist to decide whether to treat a cavity now or later, but here’s some information to help inform the decision.


​
​How Cavities Develop
Tooth decay doesn’t happen overnight. In fact, as the National Institute of Dental and Craniofacial Research notes, it is a disease process that happens over time. Thankfully, sometimes it can be stopped, reversed or entirely prevented. Bacteria in the mouth continually form a sticky plaque film on the teeth, and then use the sugars from foods (and drinks) to create acidic toxins that can eventually dissolve tooth enamel or other parts of the tooth.

The more often that teeth are exposed to these harmful acids, the greater the chance of experiencing tooth decay. After eating, the teeth are bathed in acids for approximately 20 minutes, according to the Wisconsin Dental Association. So the teeth of employees who graze on sugary snacks all day are under constant attack. This attack involves the acids dissolving minerals from the teeth, causing the teeth to decalcify and eventually decay, as the decalcified areas get larger and/or deeper into the teeth. Tooth decay can also start in oher areas of the teeth, like on the root surfaces that may be exposed due to gum recession as we age, or recession caused by gum disease. These root surfaces are not covered with enamel and can decay much more easily and quickly than the areas of the teeth that are covered by enamel.

Can Cavity Treatment Wait?
Soft white spots on a tooth, sometimes called incipient lesions, are the first visible signs that tooth enamel has lost some of its minerals and is beginning to decalcify, according to the American Association of Dental Consultants. At this point, the demineralization process can be stopped by reducing the frequency of sugary things that are consumed, along with emphasizing good oral hygiene practices. Over time, lesions can repair themselves with the minerals found in saliva and fluoride from toothpaste, among other sources.

As noted by the Academy of General Dentistry (AGD), gum with xylitol can help remineralize tooth enamel after meals. The calcium in cheese and other dairy products can also help keep teeth healthy, the University of Rochester reports. When a dentist sees signs of early decay during an examination, he or she may tell the patient that while these areas may not need treatment involving a filling now, the dentist will keep an eye on those areas at each appointment—so that if a tooth needs a filling, it will be more likely to be a small one.

When to Seek Treatment
If early tooth decay is left untreated, it can break down more enamel and, in time, reach the softer dentin portion of the tooth. Not only will pain or tooth sensitivity become a real possibility as the cavity gets bigger, but the tooth won’t be able to repair itself—the decay will need to be removed and the tooth restored with a filling. If too much tooth enamel is destroyed, the dentist may have to place a crown to fix the tooth.

Since tooth decay moves quickly through the dentin layer of the tooth, it may reach the inner pulp portion of the tooth (which is made up of blood vessels and nerves) if treatment is delayed. When decay infects the pulp, an abscess may form and spread an infection to the surrounding bone, explains the AGD. Not only can this situation be very painful, there are only two treatment choices. The dentist can either perform a root canal to remove all of the diseased pulp tissue or extract the entire tooth.

Preventing Tooth Decay
Prevention is always the best medicine, and when it comes to tooth decay, this adage is definitely appropriate. If your employees and their families adhere to the following basics recommended by the American Dental Association, they may never have to worry about the unpleasant consequences of tooth decay:

• Brush thoroughly at least twice a day with fluoride toothpaste, and floss daily.
• Replace each family member’s toothbrush at least every three months. Frayed brushes don’t clean well and can harbor harmful bacteria.
• Visit the dentist regularly for an examination and for any necessary teeth cleaning procedures.
• Start children’s visits to the dentist before their first birthday, and when they start to get their baby teeth, ask about fluoride treatments and sealants as preventive measures.
• Encourage the family to eat healthy, nutritious meals and limit between-meal snacks. Since some snacking is inevitable, try to keep healthy alternatives on hand and limit the frequency of snacks.

Any dentist should tell you that cavity treatment, when the time is right, is definitely a “best practice.” And although being able to have an early cavity reverse itself is everyone’s wish, never letting a cavity get started is truly the epitome of good oral health.

The best place to be on a sunny summer day is on the water; fisherman would certainly agree. Though, whether you favor the power boat for fishing, the refreshing quality of sailing, or even zippy momentum of jet ski freedom, there's serenity in water-based leisure that propels its infinite popularity. All of the daily worries seem to float away with the waves - until something goes awry and you’re left wondering what to do next.

You have Auto Insurance for your car or truck in the event of accidents. As a boat owner, your boat is vulnerable to risk, just like your car or truck, so it should always be insured and there are two different options that will work for you:

1. Buy a Stand Alone Policy for Your Boat
   1. For some power boats and sailboats of a certain size, this option is mandatory. If you are in doubt as to whether your watercraft requires its own insurance policy, we can check for you.
2. Add Your Boat to an Existing Homeowner's Insurance Policy
   1. Generally for those with smaller engines, this option is appropriate for boat owners who have certain types of powerboats as well as for owners of jet skis and other water sport vehicles.

In the event that it’s mandatory for you to buy a stand alone policy for your boat, you’ll alse have to consider the type of policy you want - boat owners can choose from two different types:

1. Agreed Value Policy
   1. In this case, you and your insurance provider mutually agree on your boat's value. If for example, at the time you obtain a policy, you agree that your boat is worth $50,000, you will receive up to $50,000 to cover the cost of that boat should it be damaged or stolen, even years after.
2. Actual Value Policy
   1. Under this type of policy, when your insurance company pays actual cash value, they are only paying what your boat was worth at any given time minus any depreciation in the event of a claim. The trade off is that the premiums you pay will be somewhat lower.

Another aspect here are the three required main components that every boat insurance policy should have:

1. Bodily Injury Liability
   1. If you were to injure a fellow boater in an accident, this would protect you from out-of-pocket expenses and lawsuits.
2. Property Damage Liability
   1. This component handles the costs associated with physical damage to personal property, ramps, docks, and other boats.
3. Physical Damage
   1. This type of coverage pays for any damages you may cause to your own boat.

We’ll be there for you every step of the way when you’re in the market for boat insurance. It would also be a good idea to chat with friends and fellow boaters about what types of policies they have and what their experiences with filings claims have been like. If you haven’t been able to commit to buying your own boat yet, and you’re renting a boat or water sport vehicle, be sure to verify that the owner has boat rental insurance. While it isn't a requirement, a reputable renter will carry boat rental insurance to protect both the property and the people who use it. 

Harris, Reed & Seiferth Insurance Group is an Independent Agency that shops to find you the best value for your insurance dollar. No compromise in coverage or quality, and at renewal we shop again to insure our clients are still receiving the best value for their insurance dollar. If you have more questions, give us a call today to learn more and get a quote.

Contact us today for a quote!​
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Harris Reed & Seiferth Insurance Group 
​Office: 561-768-8176 
www.harrisreedandseiferthinsurancegroup.com