Regular maintenance will keep your siding looking new and lasting longer. Why is it so important to regularly maintain your siding? Like the skin on your body, there are two main purposes that siding fulfills: appearance and protection. It protects your home against natural elements and pests, adds stability to the frame of your home, helps insulate and it also adds character to the outside of the home.

Although there are several different types of siding you can choose from for manufactured homes, the three most popular include metal siding, like aluminum or steel, vinyl siding or a natural wood siding. And each kind of material needs to be maintained differently.

Washing

Give your home a good washing for a fresh new look.

Note: Don't wash wood siding. Heavy exposure to water might result in decay, chipping, bowed or expanded panels, disintegration or shrinkage. Read below to learn about proper maintenance for wood siding.

• Make sure you close all the windows, doors and vents.
• Cover anything on the house you don't want to get wet. Use plastic bags and tarps with duct tape to cover bushes, outdoor furniture and light fixtures.
• Attach a soft car-washing brush to your garden hose and wash off the dirt.
• Remove tree sap and any other stubborn stains. First soak the sap with raw linseed oil, mineral spirits, or auto bug and tar remover. Let stand until soft. Wipe with a clean cloth.
• You can use household detergent to clean the siding or purchase a cleaning compound specifically for your siding material. Several varieties are available at manufactured home supply stores.
• Wash your siding from top to bottom to keep the lower area wet, preventing detergent lines.
• Rinse off the cleaner. Attach a spray nozzle to your hose to increase water pressure
• Dry the siding with a towel from the top down.

Vinyl Siding

• Don't rely on a rainstorm to keep your siding clean. Give it a good cleaning at least once a year to keep sediment and grime off its surface.
• Replace any damaged panels. New panels are quick and easy to install.
• If your vinyl siding has a wood grain or pebble finish, it will hold dirt and require more frequent washing.
• If you do not have rain gutters, your house will need more frequent cleaning.
• Rubbing compound scratches vinyl surfaces.
• Vinyl siding is brittle in very cold weather. Be careful not to hit or strike it, or it might shatter.

Keep grills from vinyl. Exposing the vinyl to intense heat will melt the siding.

You might think that a paint job would be an inexpensive and easy solution to make faded vinyl siding look like new again. But paint does not hold well to vinyl's surface because it continuously changes with the weather. Vinyl soaks up heat causing expansion and contraction as temperatures rise and fall. Instead of a short-term painting job, consider replacing your siding altogether. Check with a several retailers to see the variety of colors and textures to choose from. Ask them about lifetime warranties or guarantees that they offer.

Wood Siding

Cedar, Cypress and Redwood sidings are popular siding choices that offer natural beauty to the outside of a home. But wood siding requires more upkeep than most siding because of its natural surface. With regular maintenance and care, you can prevent damage and keep your wood siding looking beautiful for several years.

• Caulk any joints, holes or cracks with a paint-able caulk. Seal the bottom of the panels and any chips.
• Paint or stain the wood every four years. Check the manufacturer's guidelines to see what kind of paint or stain works best with the wood on your home.
• Keep an eye out for critters. Birds, insects and rodents love to make a home or a meal out of wood siding.
• Keep sprinklers away from the home. Heavy exposure to water might result in decay, chipping, bowed or expanded panels, disintegration or shrinkage. Wood siding resides best in dry regions
• Check the paint for flaking and re-cover any exposed surface.

Aluminum Siding

Keep aluminum siding looking like new with a regular cleaning every six months to prevent oxidation and/or corrosion over time. For metal siding, oxidation and corrosion are common problems that wear and tear at the outside of your home. Taking care of these problems as soon as they occur could save you from having to replace your siding altogether.

Corrosion

Corroded areas leave dark spots on the siding. These are caused by moisture being exposed to the metal surface for extended periods. Check for rust-colored stains in places that tend to stay wet longer, such as under eaves or recessed entryways. If you find corroded areas, be sure to get rid of the spots before they spread further. For both aluminum and steel siding, sand out the corrosion blisters down to the bare metal, then spot prime with an anti-rust primer.

Oxidation
Oxidation leaves a white chalky film on the siding that can dull the exterior of your home. Keep your siding clean to prevent oxidation from forming. If your siding looks faded from oxidation, contact a professional manufactured home washer. A professional can clean your house in less than an hour with high-pressure hoses.

Scratches
Keep a minor scratch on your metal siding from becoming a major problem.

• Lightly rub the scratched area with a fine rubbing compound. This will remove dirt, grease and loose paint.
• Rinse with water and dry.
• Cover larger areas with a primer coat to improve to help prevent the formation of rust. Allow to dry.
• Use a small brush and cover the scratch with touch-up paint. Apply as many layers of paint as you need to make the scratch less noticeable. Allow drying time between coats, and allow two weeks for the paint to completely harden.
• Use a fine polishing compound to blend the area into the surrounding paint. Apply a coat of oil-based wax to the entire area.

Painting Metal Siding

Apply a fresh coat of paint to the siding of your home to keep it looking like new. If you need to paint just one panel, consider taking that panel to an auto body shop to be painted. They should be able to match the color. If you plan to paint the whole exterior of the home and want to tackle the project yourself, wait for a calm and overcast day to paint. Paint needs to dry slowly and the sunlight and wind will only speed up the drying process.

Prepare to paint:

• Thoroughly wash the exterior of your home
• Repair any dents.
• Caulk any cracks or holes along the panels, around corners or around windows with a paint-able caulk.
• Cover everything you don't want painted (windows, doors, the roof, etc.) with newspapers, drop cloths, tarps or masking tape. It's much easier to cover these areas beforehand than to remove paint later.

Before you're ready to apply an oil-based metal paint primer, the siding needs to be completely dry. Mix one gallon of the oil-based paint primer with one pint of paint thinner. Tint the primer to a lighter shade of the paint color you choose. The primer will help the new paint adhere to the surface and provide an extra color coat. Let the primer dry completely before adding the next coat of paint.

Use an acrylic-based, latex exterior house paint over the primer. A high volume of acrylic resin in the paint will make the paint job last longer. Invest in premium paint, brushes and roller covers. Bargain paint is no bargain if you're looking for better coverage, longer wear and a more washable surface.

How much paint do I purchase?

To compute the amount of paint needed, multiply the height of the house times the entire perimeter. Do not subtract for windows because this area will roughly equal the trim, eaves and soffits. Divide the total square footage by the number of square feet per gallon cited on the label of the paint.

Source: ​https://www.foremost.com/learning-center/keep-your-siding-looking-new.asp

Attachments can add a great deal to your home. Awnings, canopies and sunroofs let you enjoy the outdoors and carports add shelter for your car and other outdoor items. Yet, it's important to install these attachments correctly. In a windstorm, loose sheets of fiberglass or metal can cause damage to your home.

It's fairly easy to install an awning, carport, canopy or sunroof. You should receive detailed installation instructions with your attachment. Most attachments connect to your home on a type of track. Usually, a ledger board or ribbon board attaches to the wall of the home. A mounting strip on the board hooks into the side of the attachment.

Attachment checklist

• Slant the attachment so water is channeled away from your home. If it isn't slanted, water can leak into your home or collect under your home. A slant of 1/4 inch per foot is enough to keep water off your carport, patio roof, or canopy.
• Attach the awning or sunroof to wall studs. Don't just screw the attachment into the siding because it's not strong enough to hold it up on its own. A strong wind may not only tear off an awning or sunroof, but could tear off part of your siding too.
• Make sure the attachment can handle a load of snow, if necessary. Buy an attachment built for your climate. For example, a single pan roof might collapse under a large amount of heavy wet snow.
• Check that windows and doors open without scraping the awning or sunroof. Install attachments high enough so they clear open doors and windows.
• Anchor the attachment solidly to the ground. If you have a concrete slab, bolt the posts into the concrete. If you don't have a concrete slab, either anchor your posts with an auger or set them in concrete piers.
• Caulk or seal your attachment. Use a silicone caulk to seal the seam or flashing where your attachment connects to the wall. This easy step can prevent a slow leak from causing major damage.
• Anchor an unattached storage shed to a concrete slab or secure it to the ground with auger-type anchors. If your shed breaks loose in a windstorm, not only will the shed be damaged, but so will anything it crashed into – including your home.

CAUTION!
Before you install your awning, sunroof or carport, remember to:

• Determine the location of the wall studs. You must connect your attachment to the studs, not just the siding.
• Determine the location of the electrical wires in your sidewalls.

Support post attachment
Firmly attach the posts, poles or columns that hold up your sunroof, carport, patio cover, awning or canopy, to the ground. If loosely secured, a strong wind can lift up the entire structure.
Here are two methods to secure your posts to the ground. If you have a concrete slab or steps, use the first method, otherwise, use the second. Follow these instructions if you are installing new posts or reattaching your current posts.

Attach posts to concrete
If you do not have a concrete slab, you will need to attach your posts solidly into the ground.If you have heavy soil – not sand – an auger-type anchor might be suitable. These anchors, with a mounting plate, are often available from a carport or sunroof manufacturer. Check with a manufactured home supplier if you can't find any.

Step 1: Remove post
If you are replacing an existing post, use a pry bar to lift that post from the concrete. Do not reuse screws.

Step 2: Drill holes
Use the foot or shoes of your post as a guide to position bolts. Use a masonry bit on your power drill to drill holes in concrete. Start with a small masonry bit, then switch to larger masonry bits until the holds are 3 inches deep and about 3 times the diameter of the bolt. This means you will need to drill a 3/4-inch hole for a 1/4-inch bolt.

Step 3: Apply adhesive
Check to make sure the holes still line up with the holes on the foot or base of the pole. Then, brush some construction adhesive inside the holes.

Step 4: Install shields
Insert the lag shields into the holes.

Step 5: Install post & lag bolts
Put the foot or base of the post over the holes. Insert the lag bolts through the postholes and into the lag shields. You do not need to wait for the construction adhesive to dry. Tighten bolts with a wrench. The lag shield will expand as you turn the bolt.

Attaching in ground

A better method of attaching your posts is to dig a hole and fill with cement.

Step 1: Dig holes
Be sure to check with the local building inspector regarding the best method of installing posts for your soil conditions. Find out if there are requirements for the size and depth of footings.

Caution!
Locate any buried gas, water, electrical or cable hookups.

Dig a hole for each post. It should be approximately 16 to 32 inches deep by 12 inches wide, depending on the size of the post supplied by the manufacturer. If you have many postholes to dig, or if your soil is particularly firm, you may want to rent an auger or clamshell-type posthole digger, or even a power-driven auger.

Step 2: Pour cement
If your posts are long enough, set them upright in the hole before you pour cement. Tamp the cement well, and slope away from posts. Allow cement to solidify before installing sunroof, carport, awning or patio cover. If you move the posts, you will enlarge the holes.

Step 3: Position bolts
If your posts are not long enough, pour the concrete. Before it solidifies, level the surface. Lightly press the foot or base of the post on the wet cement to make an impression mark to position the bolts. Put a washer on the bolt, and position it next to the head of the bolt. Push the bolts, upside-down, into the cement. The bolts should be embedded in the cement at least 2 inches. Let the cement harden before installing the base or foot of the post. Use lock washers and nuts to attach to bolts.

Source: https://www.foremost.com/learning-center/mobile-home-awning.asp

If your mobile home already has a fireplace or wood stove, it's a good idea to go look over these safety guidelines to confirm that it was installed correctly. If you plan to install a fireplace or wood stove, follow these safety guidelines carefully.

First, don't try to tackle this project yourself. While installation manuals usually provide all the instructions necessary for a manufactured home owner to install a wood-burning fireplace or wood stove, the consequences of a mistake are so disastrous, it's a task best left to experts.
​
It's a good idea to first check with your insurance company for their guidelines before installing these items. Your insurance policy may not cover damages if a fireplace or wood stove was not professionally installed. Plus, the manufacturer's warranty on the fireplace or wood stove may not apply unless the unit is installed by a professional.
​
Make sure you and the installer follow these safety requirements to prevent problems:

• If the fireplace or wood stove will be installed on a combustible floor, build a non-combustible hearth to protect the floor underneath the unit and in front of the opening.
• The hearth extension in front of the fireplace or wood stove needs to be made of noncombustible material. It should be extend at least 16 inches in front of, and at least 10 inches beyond each side of the unit.
• Equip the fireplace or wood stove with a built-in ash guard and spark-resistant screen, as well as metal or glass doors.
• Before you select a location for your fireplace or wood stove, consider the normal traffic pattern through the room, the location of doors and windows, and any construction obstacles above and below the unit.
• A corner might be the most economical location for your fireplace. Because of the slanted sides, a corner-installed fireplace takes up less floor space than one installed against a flat wall and projected into the room.
• Do not install the wood stove closer than 36 inches to any unprotected combustible wall. The adjacent walls should never feel uncomfortably warm.
• If you would like the wood stove to be closer than 36 inches to a wall, you may be able to reduce the clearance to 12 inches if you protect the wall with an approved, ventilated, non-combustible wall protector. Your insurance company may need to approve it as well. When installing the wall protector, space it out from the wall with screws and spacers. Make sure these spacers are placed so that they don't conduct heat directly into the wall stud.
• Supply the fireplace or wood stove with air from outside the home. It's important that a combustion air inlet provide this outside air. Make sure the inlet damper is located above the snow level. Also make sure the combustion air inlet does not drop ashes, which could be hot, under your home.
• Determine what type of stovepipe will be connected to your wood stove. It should be a double-wall steel stovepipe, which means the chimney pipe is shielded by another stovepipe at least two inches larger in diameter. A triple-wall pipe is even safer. If you use a double or triple-wall pipe, or if the wall is protected by an approved, ventilated, non-combustible protector, place the stovepipe at a minimum of 9 inches from the wall.
• It's important that your fireplace/wood stove flue pipe extends higher than all other combustion pipes and vents on your home's roof. The chimney must be at least 3 feet higher than that roof, and at least 2 feet higher than everything else within a 10-foot radius.

The National Fire Protection Association also makes these installation recommendations for manufactured homes:

• Install all fuel-burning appliances so the combustion system is completely separated from the interior atmosphere of the manufactured home. Combustion air inlets and flue gas outlets must be listed or certified as components of the appliance. The required separation should be obtained by either:
• Installing direct-vent system (sealed combustion system) appliances.
• Installing appliances within enclosures to separate the combustion and venting systems from the interior atmosphere of the home. The enclosure must not have any door, removable access panel, or other opening into it from the inside of the home. Any opening for ducts, piping, wiring and others must be sealed.
• Equip the fireplace or wood stove with an integral door(s) or shutters designed to close the fire chamber opening. It must include a complete means for venting through the roof, a combustion air inlet, a hearth extension and a way to securely attach the fireplace or fireplace stove to the home structure.
• Use a listed, factory-built chimney designed to be directly attached to fireplaces and wood stoves. The chimney needs to be equipped with a termination device and a spark arrester.
• A fireplace or wood stove, the air intake assembly, hearth extension and chimney must be installed according to the terms of their listings and the manufacturer's instructions.
• Make sure the combustion air inlet conducts air directly into the fire chamber and is designed to prevent material dropping from the hearth onto the area beneath the home.
• Do not install the fireplace or wood stove in a sleeping room.
• Have the hearth extend over the entire surface beneath a fireplace or wood stove, or beneath an elevated or overhanging fireplace.
• The label on the fireplace or wood stove should read: “FOR USE WITH SOLID FUEL ONLY.”

Once your fireplace or wood stove is operational, follow these safety tips from the National Fire Protection Association:

• Never use a flammable liquid to start a fire.
• An even-burning fire is preferable to a heavily stoked fire. Hardwoods seasoned for one year are recommended for use in fireplaces.
• Keep the area next to the fireplace free of easily ignited materials, such as newspapers, cardboard, fabrics, carpet or drapes.
• Between fires, allow ashes to cool, shovel into a metal can and dispose of properly. Watch out for ashes that are cool on the top and hot inside. Removing ashes allows the fireplace to burn cleaner and helps it heat more efficiently.
• Don't build a roaring fire just before going to bed. Plan the fire so it's nearly burned out by the time you're ready for bed. Check to see if the coals are still hot. If they are, leave the flue open for the fumes to escape.
• If your fireplace or wood stove does not have glass or metal doors, seriously consider adding this feature. Not only will this greatly improve the energy efficiency of your unit, it will also stop sparks from igniting surrounding materials. At the very least, you should have a metal screen in front of the fireplace or wood stove.
• Have the chimney and chimney pipes checked annually for creosote buildup. If necessary, have them cleaned. Creosote buildup is a major cause of chimney fires.
• Make sure you have a smoke detector located in the same room as the fireplace or wood stove, and test it regularly.

​Source: https://www.foremost.com/learning-center/installing-a-fireplace-or-wood-stove.asp

​If your mobile home is shaking, it might be because it's not leveled properly.

Your mobile home is prone to coming out of level, simply because of how it’s built. Here are a few things that may indicate your home is not properly leveled:

1. The floor shakes when you walk on it.
2. The siding or roofing is starting to buckle.
3. Your windows are difficult to open or close.
4. Cabinet doors stay open, or they're hard to close.
5. You're starting to see signs of erosion and tipping.
6. Your tie-downs and anchors are loose (if they are, here’s how you can properly install them ).

Here are a few things that can cause your home to come out of level:

1. Your home was not installed properly.
2. There is leftover damage from an earthquake.
3. Water has loosened the soil below your home.
4. The ground below your mobile is moving upward (aka heaving).

What can you do if your mobile home is not leveled properly?

If your home is still under warranty, you might be able to have the manufacturer and installer re-level it for free.

If your warranty has expired, it might be best to hire a professional.

Other things that can cause your mobile home to shake:

1. There’s a lot of wind outside.
2. There’s an earthquake happening.
3. There’s a lot of road traffic where you live.
4. Your washing machine is on, and it’s pretty strong.

You may or may not be able to stop those things from shaking your mobile home.

When it comes to the weather and other things going on outside, all homes may experience shaking from time to time.

The only difference is, you can perceive that shaking a lot more in your mobile home because of how it’s built.

While you may not be able to permanently eliminate the shaking, these things might help minimize it:

1. Upgrade the quality of your floor covering.
2. Reinforce the floor under your washing machine.
3. Check your tie-downs and anchors three or four times a year.

Keep in mind this article is for informational purposes only. It is not meant to be a comprehensive guide. These are a few reasons your mobile home could be shaking, and a few possible solutions.

Form number: 9025745

Sources:
https://www.foremost.com/learning-center/why-my-mobile-home-shaking.asp
https://architecttwocents.com/why-mobile-home-shake/
https://freedomresidence.com/why-your-mobile-home-is-shaking-and-what-to-do-about-it/

​Though some folks may high-tail it inside when winter hits, snowmobilers hit the high trails instead! But is your vehicle prepared for the weather? As excited as you might be for snow, you don't want to be left out in the cold. Here are some handy tips for winterizing snowmobiles to help ensure it's safe and ready to ride!

1. Inspection:

The first step is an overall inspection of the snowmobile's parts. This would include looking for cracks, excessive wear and tear, and anything that might have come loose. Anything used to block air intake or exhaust pipes should be unplugged. And it's a good idea to make sure the vehicle hasn't collected any unexpected stowaways while in storage, such as mice!

2. Checking levels:

Fluids such as gas, brake fluid and coolant should all be checked and topped off if low. If there is remaining gas in the tank from the previous season, it's suggested that the tank be drained and filled up with fresh gas.

3. Evaluating the engine:

Checking that carburetors are clean is important as dirty ones are a main cause of engine failure. Also, snowmobilers should make sure that the throttle, oil cables, fan and water pump belt are in good condition and without cracks.

4. Examining the skis:

Since skis are one of the most important pieces of the snowmobile, they should be checked not only for any holes, cuts or gouges, but to ensure that the runners are aligned straight!

5. Cleaning it up:​

Dirt, salt, leaves and other debris are all commonly found on snowmobiles coming out of storage. Most of it can probably be cleaned off with water and mild cleansers. However, where a deeper cleaning may be needed or desired, it can be done at a local shop or car wash.

​
All these steps are equally important when preparing the snowmobile for storage at the end of the season. But in the meantime, get out and enjoy the snow while you can!

Source: https://www.foremost.com/learning-center/how-to-prepare-your-snowmobile-for-winter.asp

If you have an ATV, UTV, or any other off-road vehicle (ORV), regular maintenance is a must. Poor ATV maintenance habits can cause your ride quality to diminish quickly. You may experience breakdowns and a host of other issues that can be avoided. If you don't know exactly what to check, our ATV and UTV maintenance checklist can help.

1. Lubricate your zerk fittings, ball joints, bushings and bearings. These parts are essential to the long-term health of your ATV. They assist with steering, suspension, and shock absorption. If you don't maintain these properly, your steering can become unpredictable and create a serious safety hazard for you and others.
2. Check the brake pads and lines. The brake pads and lines on your ATV will wear over time. You don't need to wait until they're squeaking to replace them. If they appear thin or uneven, that's a good indicator to get new ones.
3. Change and fill fluids (Follow manufacturer's recommendations). Just like with a normal car, you'll need to change and fill the fluids in your ATV regularly. Be sure to regularly monitor your:
   • Brake fluid
   • Engine coolant
   • Transmission oil
   • Gear case oils
   • Engine oil 
4. Replace or clean the filters. As with fluids, your filters will also need regular maintenance. Before your next ride, remember to check your oil and air filters.
5. Inspect the driveline and look for signs of wear. The driveline of your ATV is what transfers power to the wheels from the engine and transmission. If your driveline is faulty, you could find yourself stranded. Check for the following things:
   • Glazing
   • Cracks
   • Breaks
   • Missing cogs
   • Flat spots
   • Abrasopms 
6. Replace spark plugs. Over time, spark plugs can become worn and dirty. This could reduce your fuel economy and as a result, you'll need to fill your tank more often. You might save money by simply getting your spark plugs replaced.
7. Air up the tires and examine the tread. Your owner's manual should tell you how much air pressure you need in your tires. You can use a tire pressure gauge to see how much pressure you have. If it's below the recommended amount, add more. Additionally, be sure to examine the tread on your tires. If it's wearing down, it may be time for a new set.
8. Check all electrical wiring for cracks or exposed wires. Cracked and exposed wires are a serious hazard. If you notice that any wires are exposed are cracked, seek professional assistance immediately.
9. Inspect the body for any damages every time it's driven. While most body damage is purely cosmetic, there can be times where it is a safety hazard. For example, if your bumper or wheel well is dented in, it could eventually start to rub up against your tire, potentially causing it to pop while you're riding. Even if it seems like it's not a big deal now, it may be a good idea to get any body damage checked by a professional.
10. Wash the vehicle (especially after muddy rides!). You want your ride to look good, right? Of course! Besides wanting that squeaky clean shine, failing to wash your vehicle can cause certain parts to rust. In some cases, this could lead to a loss in functionality.

We suggest you create a regular ATV maintenance schedule to keep your UTV in good shape and ride safe!

If you're looking for ATV insurance, UTV insurance, or insurance for another off-road vehicle (ORV), you can get a quote with Foremost® today!

Source: https://www.foremost.com/learning-center/atv-maintenance-checklist.asp

ATVs and other off-road vehicles are adaptable to many situations. With that being said, you can't always predict what will happen on off road adventures. If you need to perform emergency maintenance, it will help to be equipped with the proper tools. To prepare yourself in advance, Foremost® Insurance recommends keeping the following items in your ATV emergency kit.

1. Air pump and tire repair kit. When traveling off road you're more likely to encounter various bumps in the road, like rocks or even holes, that can flatten your tire. If you have a tire repair kit handy, you should be able to patch small holes. Many repair kits come with air pumps, but it may be a great idea to bring an extra one just in case.
2. Tool kit. It helps to have a tool kit handy if you can. If you need to remove a tire or access a part of the vehicle that's enclosed under something else, you may need more than just your hands to get the job done.
3. Duct Tape. While we don't recommend using duct tape for any serious repairs, it may be able to temporarily patch a leak in a water hose or radiator bottle, for example, which can buy you enough time to get to a repair shop. Additionally, duct tape can be useful if you or someone else falls off a vehicle. We highly recommend seeking professional medical attention in this situation, but if someone twist their ankle, using duct table can help to stabilize it until you get to a medical facility.
4. A knife. A knife can be useful if you or someone you're with has an injury, as it can be used to cut bandages and wrapping torniquets. Whether you opt for a Swiss army knife or a regular pocket knife is up to you. A Swiss army knife may apply to more situations overall, but in terms of practicality, a pocket knife may be enough.
5. Jumper cables. Of course, jumper cables will be useful if you or someone else's vehicle loses battery power. We recommend always keeping these with you.
6. First aid kit. First aid kits can be useful for treating minor scratches and bruises. With the unpredictable terrain of off-road adventures, you never know when you'd need these.
7. Bug spray. It's not uncommon to encounter bugs when you're off roading. If you don't want those pesky creatures bothering you, keep some bug spray in the vehicle. This way if you forget to put some on before you head out, or if it wears out, you'll always have some to reapply.
8. Spare tire. While we do advise keeping a tire repair kit, they don't work in every situation. There may be times when a tire is damaged beyond repair. In this case, you'll need a spare tire.
9. Spare parts. You should keep a spare of the following parts: belt, spark plug, tie-rods, and ball joints. While these require a bit of handy work to replace, if you don't have any spares on hand, you may become stranded.
10. Tow strap. If you do become stranded, you will need someone to tow your vehicle to a safe place. We advise you to keep a tow strap on hand in case this happens.

To lessen your changes of having emergency situations, please ride safely.

If you're looking for ATV insurance, UTV insurance, or insurance for another off-road vehicle (ORV), you can get a quote with Foremost today!

Source: https://www.foremost.com/learning-center/atv-trail-riding-survival-kit.asp